Making a Wooden Jewelry Box With Drawer: Essential Guide

This guide will show you step-by-step how to make a beautiful wooden jewelry box with a drawer. Perfect for beginners, we’ll cover tools, materials, and easy techniques to create a functional and attractive piece for your keepsakes.

Hey there, DIYers! Jack Shaffer here from Nailerguy. Ever admired a handmade wooden jewelry box and thought, “I wish I could make one of those”? The good news is, you absolutely can! While it might seem a bit daunting at first, building a wooden jewelry box with a drawer is a rewarding project that’s totally achievable for beginners. You’ll end up with a lovely, custom piece to store your treasures or gift to someone special.

We’ll walk through everything, from choosing your wood to putting on the finishing touches. No fancy skills needed, just a willingness to learn and a few basic tools. Let’s get started and craft something beautiful together!

Why Make Your Own Wooden Jewelry Box?

Making your own wooden jewelry box is a fantastic project for so many reasons. It’s a great way to practice basic woodworking skills, and you get a beautiful, functional item at the end. Unlike store-bought options, you can customize it to your exact liking – choose the wood, the style, the finish, and even the little details. Plus, there’s a special satisfaction in creating something with your own hands.

Essential Tools for Your Jewelry Box Project

Don’t worry if you don’t have a massive workshop! For this project, you can get by with some common tools. Having the right gear makes the job smoother and safer.

Here’s a rundown of what you’ll likely need:

Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements.
Pencil: To mark your wood.
Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes!
Dust Mask: Especially important when cutting or sanding.
Miter Saw or Hand Saw with Miter Box: For precise 45-degree angle cuts for the box corners. A miter saw makes this much easier and more accurate.
Table Saw (Optional but Recommended): For cutting precise grooves for the drawer bottom and the drawer slide.
Jigsaw or Scroll Saw (Optional): If you want to add decorative elements or cut out fancy drawer fronts.
Clamps: Essential for holding pieces together while glue dries. You’ll need a few different sizes.
Wood Glue: A good quality wood glue is crucial for strong joints.
Sandpaper: Various grits (e.g., 120, 180, 220) for smoothing the wood.
Sanding Block or Orbital Sander: Makes sanding easier and more uniform.
Drill/Driver: For pilot holes and driving in screws if your design uses them.
Small Wood Chisels: Useful for cleaning up joints if needed.
Screwdriver Set: For any screws you might use.
Wood Finish: Varnish, polyurethane, oil, or paint, depending on your desired look.
Brushes or Rags: For applying your chosen finish.

Choosing Your Wood

For a jewelry box, you want wood that’s beautiful, easy to work with, and not too expensive. Hardwoods are durable and look great, while softwoods are more budget-friendly and easier to cut.

Here are some popular choices:

Pine: A softwood that’s readily available, inexpensive, and easy to cut and sand. It has a nice, light color that takes finishes well.
Poplar: Another good, affordable hardwood. It’s relatively soft for a hardwood, making it easier to work with than some others, and it paints beautifully.
Oak: A classic hardwood with a strong grain. It’s durable and takes stain nicely, giving a rich look. It can be a bit harder to work with than pine.
Maple: A smooth, light-colored hardwood that’s very durable. It has a fine grain and takes stains and finishes vibrantly.
Cherry: This hardwood darkens beautifully with age and has a lovely reddish hue when finished. It’s a bit more of an investment but offers a stunning result.

For your first project, I’d recommend starting with pine or poplar. They’re forgiving and will help you build confidence.

Design Considerations: The Box and the Drawer

Before you cut, let’s think about the design. A typical jewelry box will have a main compartment and then a sliding drawer.

The Main Box Structure

The easiest way to build the box is usually with four sides that meet at 45-degree angles, forming a mitered corner. This creates a clean, seamless look. The bottom of the box can be a piece of thin plywood or hardboard that slides into a groove cut into the sides.

The Drawer

The drawer needs to fit snugly inside its designated space within the main box. It will also have four sides, a front, and a bottom that slides into grooves. You’ll need to decide if the drawer will have a decorative pull or handle.

Step-by-Step: Building Your Wooden Jewelry Box with Drawer

Alright, let’s get building! We’ll aim for a simple, classic design that’s perfect for beginners.

Step 1: Cut Your Wood Pieces

First, decide on the dimensions for your box. Let’s assume we’re making a box that’s 8 inches long, 6 inches wide, and 4 inches tall (external dimensions), with a drawer that’s about 6 inches long, 4 inches wide, and 2 inches tall (internal dimensions).

You’ll need to cut your wood for the four sides of the main box. If you’re using a miter saw, set it to 45 degrees. For each side, you’ll need two pieces. For example, to make two long sides:

Set your saw to 45 degrees.
Cut one end of your wood board at 45 degrees.
Measure the desired length (e.g., 8 inches along the longest point of the bevel).
Cut the other end at 45 degrees, ensuring the angle goes in the opposite direction so you have a trapezoid shape.
Repeat for the second long side.
Do the same for the two shorter sides (e.g., 6 inches along the longest point).

You’ll also need pieces for the drawer sides, front, and back, and a piece for the drawer bottom. For the box bottom, cut a piece of thin plywood or hardboard to fit the internal dimensions of your box after you’ve confirmed the side pieces fit together nicely.

Step 2: Cut Grooves for the Bottoms

This is where a table saw is really handy. You’ll want to cut a groove along the inside bottom edge of all four main box pieces and all four drawer side pieces. This groove will hold the bottom panels.

If you don’t have a table saw, you can use a router with a straight bit, or even carefully use a chisel and hand saw to create a shallow dado (a channel cut across the grain) or a rabbet (a groove cut along the edge). Set your table saw fence so the groove is about 1/4 inch up from the bottom edge, and adjust the blade height to be about 1/4 inch deep. Practice on scrap wood first!

Step 3: Assemble the Main Box

Now it’s time to glue and clamp the sides of your main jewelry box together.

Apply a generous amount of wood glue to the mitered edges of one of the long sides and one of the short sides.
Press them together, ensuring the angles meet perfectly.
Use clamps to hold them firmly in place. You might need corner clamps or bar clamps.
Wipe away any excess glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth. This is important, as dried glue is hard to remove and will show up under a finish.
Repeat this process for the remaining two sides, joining them to form the box.
Let the glue dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 4: Insert the Box Bottom

Once the main box is dry and the clamps are off, slide your pre-cut bottom panel into the grooves you made. Apply a thin bead of glue along the inside bottom edges where the panel meets the grooves. Then, gently tap the bottom panel into place. You can also add a few small brad nails or brads through the sides into the bottom panel for extra security, but be careful not to split the wood.

Step 5: Build the Drawer

Building the drawer is very similar to building the main box, just on a smaller scale.

Cut your pieces for the drawer front, back, and two sides. Remember to account for the grooves you’ll cut.
Cut the grooves for the drawer bottom on the inside of these pieces.
Assemble the drawer sides using glue and clamps, just like you did for the main box.
Glue and slide in the drawer bottom.
For the drawer front, you’ll likely want to attach it after the drawer box is assembled to ensure a perfect fit. Apply glue to the front edges of the drawer box and press the drawer front into place. Clamp securely.

Step 6: Cutting Drawer Slides (If Applicable)

For a well-functioning drawer, you need a way for it to slide smoothly. You can create simple slides out of wood strips. Attach one set of strips to the inside of the main box where the drawer will sit, and a corresponding set to the bottom edges of the drawer sides. Ensure they are parallel and allow for clearance.

Alternatively, you can cut a dado (groove) into the inside of the main box sides and a matching tongue on the drawer sides for the drawer to slide in. This is a cleaner look but requires more precise cutting, often with a table saw.

Step 7: Sanding and Smoothing

This is a crucial step for a professional finish. Start with a coarser grit sandpaper (around 120) to remove any imperfections, glue residue, or rough edges. Then, move to a medium grit (180), and finally a fine grit (220 or higher) for a silky-smooth surface. Sand all surfaces, inside and out. Pay special attention to the edges and corners.

A good sanding technique is to sand with the grain of the wood. If you’re using an orbital sander, make sure you don’t over-sand any one spot, as it’s easy to create dips.

Step 8: Applying the Finish

Now for the fun part – bringing out the beauty of the wood!

Cleaning: Before applying any finish, wipe down the entire box and drawer with a tack cloth or slightly damp cloth to remove all dust.
Staining (Optional): If you want to change the color of the wood, apply a wood stain according to the product instructions. Wipe off any excess stain after a few minutes. Let it dry completely.
Sealing: Apply your chosen topcoat. This could be polyurethane, varnish, lacquer, or a penetrating oil.
Application: Use a good quality brush or lint-free rag. Apply thin, even coats. For varnishes or polyurethanes, you’ll likely need to lightly sand with very fine sandpaper (320 grit or higher) between coats once dry. This helps to create a smoother finish.
Drying: Allow each coat to dry thoroughly, following the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Step 9: Adding Drawer Pulls or Handles

Once the finish is completely dry, it’s time to add a drawer pull or handle. You can buy them or even make your own.

Measure and mark the desired location for your pull on the drawer front.
Drill a pilot hole through the drawer front from the inside.
Attach the handle or pull using screws, tightening them from the inside of the drawer.

Step 10: Finishing Touches and Interior

Consider adding a liner to the inside of your jewelry box and drawer. Felt or craft foam are excellent choices. Cut them to size and glue them in place. This adds a touch of luxury and protects your jewelry.

A Table of Common Wood Choices for Jewelry Boxes

Here’s a quick look at some popular wood types, along with their pros and cons for this project:

Wood Type	Pros	Cons
Pine	Inexpensive, easy to work with, takes stain well.	Soft, can dent easily.
Poplar	Affordable hardwood, paints exceptionally well, fairly easy to work with.	Grain can be somewhat plain.
Oak	Durable, strong grain pattern, beautiful when stained.	Harder to cut and sand, can be more expensive.
Maple	Durable, smooth grain, takes finishes beautifully.	Can be more challenging to stain evenly, can be pricier.
Cherry	Beautiful color, develops a rich patina, smooth.	More expensive, can be slightly harder to work with.

Tips for Success

Measure Twice, Cut Once: It’s a classic for a reason. Accuracy is key in woodworking.
Use a Sharp Blade: A dull blade will tear the wood and make your cuts look rough.
Practice Cuts: If you’re new to mitered cuts or cutting grooves, practice on scrap pieces of wood first.
Proper Clamping: Ensure your clamps are tight enough to hold the pieces firmly but not so tight that they damage the wood or distort the joint.
Dust Control: Always wear a dust mask and safety glasses. Good dust collection is vital for your health and a cleaner workshop. For more on workshop safety, check out resources from the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) for general safety guidelines.
Patience: Woodworking takes time. Rushing can lead to mistakes. Enjoy the process!

Frequently Asked Questions About Making a Wooden Jewelry Box

Q1: What is the best type of wood for a beginner to use for a jewelry box?
A1: Pine or poplar are excellent choices for beginners. They are affordable, easy to cut and sand, and forgiving if you make small mistakes.

Q2: How do I get my mitered corners to fit perfectly?
A2: Ensure your saw blade is sharp and your saw is calibrated correctly. Make sure the wood is held firmly against the fence and the saw’s miter gauge. Cutting the pieces to exactly the same length along the longest edge is also crucial.

Q3: My drawer is sticking. What can I do?
A3: This could be due to a few things: the drawer is bent or not square, the drawer slides aren’t parallel, or there’s too much friction. Try ensuring the drawer is perfectly square, re-sand any rough areas, and make sure the slides are running smoothly. A bit of paste wax applied to the slides can also help.

Q4: How deep should the grooves for the bottom panel be?
A4: A good depth for the groove is about 1/4 inch. This provides enough support for the bottom panel without weakening the sides too much. The width of the groove should be slightly wider than the thickness of your bottom panel material.

Q5: Can I build this jewelry box without a table saw?
A5: Yes, absolutely! While a table saw makes cutting grooves much easier and more precise, you can achieve similar results with a router and a straight bit, or even by carefully using a handsaw and chisel for dadoes or rabbets. For the mitered box sides, a good quality hand saw used with a miter box will work just fine.

Q6: How do I make sure my drawer bottom fits into the grooves?
A6: It’s best to cut your drawer bottom panel slightly smaller than the internal dimensions of the assembled drawer box, taking into account the depth of the grooves. This ensures it will slide in easily. You should aim for a snug, but not forced, fit.

Conclusion

And there you have it! You’ve just learned how to make a wooden jewelry box with a drawer. This project is a fantastic introduction to woodworking, combining basic joinery, careful measuring, and finishing techniques. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempt isn’t perfect – every project is a learning experience. The most important thing is that you’ve created something functional and beautiful with your own two hands.

Whether you’re making it for yourself or as a heartfelt gift, a handmade wooden jewelry box is a treasure for years to come. So gather your tools, pick out some beautiful wood, and get building. Happy woodworking!