What Nails Work With a Roofing Nailer: Essential Guide

Quick Summary:
To choose the right nails for your roofing nailer, focus on size, collation type, and material. Ensure they match your nailer’s specifications and the roofing material for a secure, long-lasting installation. Always consult your nailer’s manual for exact compatibility.

Hey DIYers! Jack Shaffer here, your go-to guy for all things nailers. Ever stared at a box of roofing nails, wondering if they’re the right fit for your shiny new roofing nailer? It’s a common hiccup, I know! Getting this wrong can lead to jams, bent nails, or worse, a roof that isn’t properly secured. But don’t sweat it! We’re going to walk through exactly what nails you need to make your roofing job a breeze.

We’ll cover everything from the nitty-gritty of nail sizes to understanding those angled strips and caps. By the end of this guide, you’ll be a roofing nail pro, confidently choosing the perfect fasteners every time. Ready to nail it?

Table of Contents

Choosing the Right Nails for Your Roofing Nailer: A Complete Guide

Working on your roof is a big project, and using the right tools and supplies is crucial for safety and a job well done. One of the most important decisions you’ll make is selecting the correct nails for your roofing nailer. It might seem straightforward, but there’s a bit more to it than just grabbing any old nail. The wrong nail can cause your nailer to jam, damage your roofing material, or lead to premature roof failure.

As your Nailerguy, I’m here to break down the essentials. We’ll explore the different types of roofing nails, how to match them to your nailer, and what to consider for different roofing materials. Let’s get started on ensuring your roof is as secure as it can be!

Understanding Roofing Nailer Nail Specifications

Roofing nailers are specialized tools designed for one primary purpose: driving nails quickly and efficiently into roofing materials. Because of this specific use, the nails they use have unique characteristics. Ignoring these can lead to frustration and costly mistakes.

The key specifications to look out for are the nail’s diamater (or gauge), length, and the collation type. These three elements are critical for compatibility with your specific roofing nailer model and the success of your roofing project. Think of it like choosing the right key for a lock; it has to be the correct shape and size to work properly.

Nail Diameter (Gauge) and Length: The Critical Dimensions

The diameter and length of a roofing nail are perhaps the most important factors when selecting the right fastener. These dimensions ensure that the nail penetrates the roofing material and sheathing sufficiently for a strong hold, without being so large that they split the wood or damage the overlying shingles.

Nail Diameter (Gauge)

Roofing nails are typically measured by gauge, which is a bit counter-intuitive: a lower gauge number means a thicker nail. Common roofing nail gauges you’ll encounter are:

10-gauge: These are the most common and are generally suitable for asphalt shingles and many other common roofing materials. They offer a good balance of holding power and minimal risk of splitting.
11-gauge: Slightly thinner than 10-gauge nails, these are sometimes used for lighter-duty roofing applications or when a slightly less aggressive penetration is desired.
12-gauge: These are the thinnest among the common roofing nail gauges. They are best suited for very specific applications, often where minimal impact is preferred.

Your roofing nailer is designed to drive nails of a specific gauge. Using a nail that is too thick can cause jams and strain the tool. Using one that is too thin might not provide adequate holding strength.

Nail Length

The length of the nail is critical for ensuring it properly secures the roofing material to the roof deck (the plywood or OSB sheathing underneath). For most asphalt shingles and standard roofing applications, a nail length of 1-1/4 inches to 1-1/2 inches is typical. This length allows the nail to pass through the shingle and embed into the roof deck by at least 3/4 of an inch.

The required nail length can vary based on:

Roofing Material Thickness: Thicker shingles or underlayments might require slightly longer nails.
Sheathing Thickness: If you have thicker plywood or OSB sheathing, you might need to adjust nail length to ensure adequate penetration. However, it’s crucial not to overdrive the nail so much that it emerges through the underside of the roof deck.
Local Building Codes: Always check local building codes as they may specify minimum nail length and type requirements for roofing. The International Code Council (ICC) provides valuable resources on building safety standards.

Always refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for your roofing material and your roofing nailer to determine the optimal nail length.

Collation Type: How the Nails Are Held Together

Roofing nails come in strips or coils that are held together by a “collation” system. This is what allows the nailer to feed them automatically. The collation type is highly specific to the nailer model, and you must use nails collated in a way your nailer is designed for.

1. Wire Collated Nails

These are very common and are used in many general-purpose framing and construction nailers. However, for roofing, wire collation is less common for dedicated roofing nailers. They are simply nails bound together with wire. The wire is then typically sheared off as the nail is driven.

2. Plastic Collated Nails

Plastic collation is the most prevalent system for modern roofing nailers. The nails are held together by plastic strips. When a nail is fired, the plastic gets driven into the roof sheathing along with the nail. Some systems are designed so the plastic fragments are small and unobtrusive, while others may use a larger plastic “washer” effect.

Advantages of Plastic Collated Nails:

Generally more robust in wet conditions than paper or glue collation.
Leads to fewer misfires compared to some other types.
The collation material can enhance the seal around the nail head, especially with cap nails.

3. Paper Collated Nails

These nails are held together by paper strips. When fired, the paper is typically consumed or breaks away cleanly. Paper collation is often used for framing nails and some construction applications but is less common for dedicated roofing nailers compared to plastic.

4. Glue Collated Nails

Similar to paper collation, glue collated nails are held together by glue. This is common in framing nailers. When fired, the glue breaks down. While effective, glue collation can be sensitive to moisture and temperature extremes, potentially leading to collation failure.

5. Wire Ring Nails

These might be seen as a subtype of wire collation but are worth mentioning. They have a ring shank for extra holding power and are often collated. Special roofing nailers are designed for these. Their primary advantage is superior holding power.

6. Full Round Head vs. Duplex Head

It’s vital to distinguish between the head of the nail. While most modern roofing nailers use full round head nails (for maximum bearing surface), some older or specialized applications might use duplex head nails (also known as double-headed nails). These are primarily used for temporary construction where easy removal is needed, which is usually not the case for permanent roofing.

The Importance of the Nail Head: Full Round Head

For most roofing applications, especially with asphalt shingles, the nail head is crucial. You will almost exclusively be using full round head nails. These nails have a flat, circular head that provides a wide bearing surface. This wide head is essential for holding down the shingle tab effectively without tearing through the material.

Smaller heads, like those found on finish nails, would likely pull through the soft asphalt and fiberglass mat of a shingle, leading to leaks and shingle blow-off. Always ensure your nailer is designed for and loaded with full round head roofing nails.

Introducing the N endify Cap Nail System

A significant advancement in roofing nail technology is the development of cap nails. These are essentially standard roofing nails, typically 1-1/4″ or 1-1/2″ in length and 10-gauge or 11-gauge, but they come with a plastic cap already attached to the nail head.

This pre-attached cap provides an extra layer of protection against water intrusion. When the nail is driven, the cap forms a seal around the nail head, further securing the shingle and preventing water from seeping through the nail hole. These are often collated with plastic.

Benefits of Cap Nails:

Enhanced Water Resistance: The cap creates a superior seal, significantly reducing the risk of leaks around the nail head.
Improved Holding Power: The wider cap distributes pressure, helping to hold the shingle down more effectively.
Code Compliance: In some areas, building codes may require or strongly recommend the use of cap nails for increased durability and water resistance.
Efficiency: Having the cap pre-attached saves a step on the job compared to using separate caps, though this increases the cost of the nails themselves.

If your roofing nailer is compatible with them (most modern ones are), cap nails are an excellent choice for asphalt shingles and many other common roofing materials, offering a superior and more reliable installation.

When to Use Specific Nail Types

The type of nail you choose depends heavily on the roofing material and your specific nailer’s capabilities. Here’s a quick guide.

Asphalt Shingles

For asphalt shingles, you’ll generally use:

Nail Size: 1-1/4″ or 1-1/2″ length, 11-gauge or 10-gauge diameter.
Head Type: Full Round Head.
Collation: Plastic Collation is most common.
Recommendation: Cap nails (with plastic collation) are highly recommended for optimal sealing and longevity.

Wood Shingles and Shakes

Wood roofing requires nails that resist corrosion and provide strong holding power. Stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized nails are essential.

Nail Size: Typically 1-1/2″ to 1-3/4″ length. The diameter can vary, but often 11-gauge or 10-gauge.
Head Type: Full Round Head.
Material: Stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized (HDG) steel is a must to prevent rust staining and ensure durability.
Collation: Plastic collation is common.

Note: Always check the specific requirements for your chosen wood shingle or shake product. Some may require ring-shank nails for even better holding power.

Metal Roofing

Metal roofing systems, especially standing seam or those with concealed fasteners, often use specialized screws rather than nails. However, for exposed fastener metal roofing panels, specific screws or nails are used.

Nail Size: Typically longer, around 1-1/2″ to 2″.
Head Type: Often custom heads or accompanied by large EPDM washers to ensure a watertight seal.
Material: Stainless steel is paramount to prevent corrosion and staining.
Collation: Specialized collations or loose collation might be used depending on the fastener.

It’s important to note that many metal roofing installations will utilize screws with EPDM washers rather than nails driven from a nailer. Always refer to the metal roofing manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Other Roofing Materials (e.g., Rubber, Composite)

For less common materials, it’s crucial to consult the manufacturer’s installation guide. They will specify the exact type, size, and material of fasteners required. Using the wrong fastener can void warranties and compromise the roof’s integrity.

Compatibility Check: Your Nailer’s Manual is Your Best Friend

This is the golden rule: Always check your roofing nailer’s manual. Every nailer is designed with specific tolerances for nail length, diameter, collation angle, and collation type.

Your manual will explicitly state:

The range of nail lengths (e.g., 1″ to 2″).
The required nail gauge (e.g., 10-gauge or 11-gauge).
The acceptable collation types (e.g., plastic, wire).
The required collation angle (e.g., 15 degrees, 20 degrees). This is the angle at which the nails are held in the strip or coil. A nailer designed for 15-degree collated nails simply won’t feed nails from a 20-degree strip correctly, and vice-versa.

Using nails that don’t match these specifications is a recipe for disaster. It can lead to:

Nail Gun Malfunctions: Jams, misfires, or damage to the tool’s firing mechanism.
Improper Nailing: Nails not driven to the correct depth, leading to poor holding power.
Roof Damage: Nails driven too deep can damage the shingle or sheathing. Nails driven too shallow won’t hold.
Leaks: Improperly driven or incompatible nails can create entry points for water.

If you don’t have the manual, search online using your nailer’s make and model. Reputable manufacturers usually have PDF versions available on their websites.

Material Matters: Steel, Galvanized, and Stainless Steel

The material of the nail is just as important as its dimensions and collation, particularly for long-term durability.

Electro-Galvanized Nails

These are common steel nails coated with a thin layer of zinc. This coating provides some protection against rust, making them suitable for many general construction tasks. For roofing, they are often used for asphalt shingles where they are less exposed to the elements and protected by the shingle itself.

Pros: Cost-effective, widely available.
Cons: The zinc coating can wear off over time, especially when exposed to moisture or acidic materials, leading to rust, staining, and ultimately, nail failure.

Hot-Dipped Galvanized (HDG) Nails

These nails are dipped into a bath of molten zinc. This process creates a much thicker and more durable coating of zinc compared to electro-galvanized nails. HDG nails offer significantly better corrosion resistance.

Pros: Excellent corrosion resistance, suitable for treated lumber and some exterior applications.
Cons: More expensive than electro-galvanized nails. The thicker coating might sometimes interfere with extremely precise nailing in some sensitive tools, though this is rare for roofing nailers.

Stainless Steel Nails

These nails are made from an alloy that inherently resists corrosion without relying on a coating. They are the premium choice for extreme durability and longevity.

Pros: Superior corrosion resistance, ideal for coastal areas, cedar shakes, and any situation where extreme longevity is required. Prevents rust stains and staining of roofing materials.
Cons: The most expensive option.

Recommendation: For asphalt shingles, electro-galvanized or hot-dipped galvanized full round head nails are usually sufficient, especially if covered by cap technology. For wood shakes, cedar, or in highly corrosive environments (like coastal areas), stainless steel is the preferred choice. For any application where the nail is exposed or moisture is a significant concern, opt for HDG or stainless steel.

Collation Angle: A Critical Compatibility Factor

Collation angle refers to the angle at which the nails are attached to the collation strip (plastic, paper, or wire). Most roofing nailers are designed for specific angles, commonly 15 degrees or 20 degrees. The angle is important because it dictates how the nails sit in the magazine and how the nose piece of the nailer is designed to guide them.

15-Degree Roofing Nailers: These are very common for asphalt shingles and have a more aggressive angle on the nails. This allows the nails to be driven more easily into steep slopes or tight spaces.
20-Degree Roofing Nailers: These are also prevalent and are often used for a wider range of roofing materials.

You absolutely MUST match the collation angle of your nails to the angle your nailer is designed for. If you put 15-degree nails into a 20-degree nailer (or vice versa), you will likely experience constant jamming and misfires. The nailer’s nose piece is precisely angled to engage the collation strip of the correct angle. The nail strip won’t seat properly, or the drive pin won’t hit the nail head squarely.

Always check your nailer’s manual for the