Woodworking Projects for Tablet Holders: Genius Solutions

Quick Summary: Discover simple, stylish woodworking projects for tablet holders that are perfect for beginners. Craft functional and beautiful stands to free up your hands while using your tablet anywhere in the home or workshop.

Ever found yourself juggling your tablet while trying to follow a recipe, watch a tutorial, or even just relax? It’s a common frustration! Holding a tablet for extended periods can be tiring and awkward. But what if you could build a simple, sturdy wooden holder yourself? This guide is packed with beginner-friendly woodworking projects to create awesome tablet holders. You’ll learn easy techniques to make functional and attractive stands that make using your tablet a breeze. Let’s get crafting and make your tablet life a whole lot easier!

Why Build Your Own Wood Tablet Holder?

Creating your own woodworking projects for tablet holders isn’t just about convenience; it’s a fantastic way to get started with woodworking. You don’t need a huge workshop or expensive tools to make something truly useful and attractive. Plus, a handmade wooden tablet holder can be a thoughtful gift for friends and family who are always on their devices.

Benefits of a DIY Wood Tablet Holder:

Customization: Make it exactly the size and style you need.
Cost-Effective: Often cheaper than buying a specialized stand.
Skill Building: A great entry point into woodworking.
Durable: Wood is strong and lasts a long time.
Aesthetic Appeal: Wood adds a warm, natural touch to any space.

Getting Started: Essential Tools and Materials

Don’t let the thought of tools intimidate you. For most of these projects, you can start with a few basic items. Safety is always our top priority here at Nailerguy, so always wear safety glasses when working with tools.

Basic Tools You Might Need:

Measuring Tape: For accurate cuts.
Pencil: To mark your wood.
Saw: A simple handsaw is fine for small projects, or a miter saw for more precision. For beginners, a miter saw can be a game-changer for making straight, repeatable cuts.
Drill and Drill Bits: For making holes or pilot holes.
Sandpaper (various grits): To smooth out edges. Start with a coarser grit (like 80 or 120) and finish with a finer grit (like 220).
Clamps: To hold pieces together while glue dries.
Wood Glue: A strong adhesive designed for wood.
Safety Glasses: Absolutely essential for eye protection.

Common Materials:

Wood: Pine, poplar, or scrap wood pieces are great for beginners. Plywood can also work well for some designs.
Finish: Wood oil, stain, or clear coats to protect the wood and enhance its appearance.

Project 1: The Super Simple Slotted Stand

This is one of the easiest woodworking projects for tablet holders you can tackle. It’s essentially two pieces of wood that slot together. It’s versatile, stable, and can be made in under an hour!

What You’ll Need:

Two pieces of wood, about 6 inches wide and 5-6 inches long. Thickness can be around 3/4 inch.
Saw
Measuring tape
Pencil
Drill with a bit slightly wider than your tablet’s thickness
Sandpaper

Steps:

Measure and Mark: Take one piece of wood. Measure halfway across its width (3 inches if your wood is 6 inches wide) and mark a line from about 1 inch down from the top edge to the bottom edge.
Cut the Slot (Piece 1): Using your saw, carefully cut along the marked line. This will create the slot for the other piece to slide into.
Measure and Mark (Piece 2): Take the second piece of wood. You’re going to cut a slot that interlocks with the first piece. Measure halfway across its width again. Mark a line starting from the top edge down about 2-3 inches.
Cut the Slot (Piece 2): Now, cut another line parallel to the first, about 3/4 inch away (the thickness of your wood). Remove the wood strip between these two lines. You’ve just cut a rebate or dado slot.
Sand Everything: Smooth all the edges and surfaces with sandpaper. This makes it nice to handle and looks more professional.
Assemble: Slide the two pieces together at a right angle where you cut the slots. The first piece should slot into the second piece, creating an ‘X’ shape when viewed from the top.

Pro Tip: You can drill a small hole in the bottom of the first piece to help with removing it later if you want to take the stand apart. Or, for a more permanent join, add a little wood glue before sliding them together.

Project 2: The Angled Easel Stand

This design offers a comfortable viewing angle, perfect for watching videos or following tutorials. It has a back support that props the tablet up.

What You’ll Need:

One piece of wood, about 8 inches long, 6 inches wide, and 3/4 inch thick.
One smaller piece of wood (a strip), about 6 inches long, 1.5 inches wide, and 3/4 inch thick.
Saw
Measuring tape
Pencil
Drill and driver bits
Wood screws (about 1 1/4 inch long)
Sandpaper
Optional: Wood finish

Steps:

Prepare the Base: Take the larger piece of wood. Measure about 1 inch from one of the shorter edges and draw a line across its width.
Cut an Angle (Optional but Recommended): For a better resting angle, you can cut the front edge of your base at a slight angle. Mark a line from one corner of the front edge up about 1/2 inch on the opposite side, then cut along this line. Sand smooth.
Mark the Groove: On the long edge of your base piece that will face upwards and towards you, measure about 1.5 inches from the front edge and draw a line across. This is where your tablet will rest.
Cut the Lip Groove: Set your saw blade to a depth of about 3/8 inch. Make several parallel cuts along the line you just drew, close together. Then, use a chisel or a saw to remove the wood between the cuts, creating a shallow groove. Alternatively, you can simply attach the smaller strip of wood later to act as a lip.
Attach the Lip: Take your smaller strip of wood. Apply wood glue to its back and position it along the line you just created on the base. Secure it with a couple of wood screws drilled from the underside of the base up into the strip. This lip will stop your tablet from sliding off.
Prepare the Back Support: Take another piece of wood (you can use a scrap or cut one to size, maybe 8 inches by 5 inches). You’ll be attaching this to the back of your base.
Angle the Back Support: Decide on the angle you want your tablet to lean. A good starting point is around 75 degrees. You can do this by measuring up one side of the back support piece and drawing a diagonal line to the opposite top corner, then cutting off the excess. Or, you can simply attach it at an angle.
Attach the Back Support: Apply wood glue to the bottom edge of the back support. Place it on the back edge of your base piece, angled correctly. Clamp it in place and insert screws from the back of the support into the base, or from the bottom of the base up into the support. Ensure it’s sturdy.
Sand and Finish: Sand all surfaces smoothly, paying attention to the groove. Apply your desired wood finish if you wish.

This angled easel stand is perfect on a desk or kitchen counter.

Project 3: The Folding Travel Stand

Ideal for portability, this stand folds flat for easy transport. It’s a bit more involved but offers great functionality.

What You’ll Need:

Three pieces of wood, all about 3/4 inch thick.

Piece A (Base): 8 inches long, 3 inches wide.
Piece B (Back Support): 6 inches long, 3 inches wide.
Piece C (Front Lip): 8 inches long, 0.75 inches wide.

Wood dowel (about 3 inches long, 1/2 inch diameter)
Drill with bits for dowels and screws
Saw
Measuring tape
Pencil
Wood glue
Screws (optional, for added strength)
Sandpaper
Hole saw or Forstner bit (optional, for a cleaner look)

Steps:

Prepare the Base (Piece A): On one of the 3-inch edges of Piece A, measure 1 inch in from each side and mark the center.
Drill Pivot Holes: Use a drill bit the same diameter as your dowel to drill holes at the marks you just made on Piece A. Drill all the way through. These will be the pivot points for the back support.
Prepare the Back Support (Piece B): On the 3-inch edges of Piece B, measure 1 inch in from each side. At these marks, drill holes that match the diameter of your dowel. These holes should be on the edges that will attach to Piece A.
Cut the Support Angle: Decide how far you want the back support to lean. Typically, around 70-80 degrees is comfortable. Mark this desired angle on the top edge of Piece B and cut it off with your saw.
Assemble the Pivot: Apply wood glue to the edge of Piece B that you will attach to Piece A. Insert your wood dowel through the holes on Piece A, then through the corresponding holes on Piece B. You want Piece B to be able to pivot freely from Piece A. If the pivot is too loose, you can add a drop of wood glue to the dowel tip, or use a small screw from the outside into the dowel.
Attach the Front Lip (Piece C): This piece will sit on top of Piece A to act as a stopper. Apply wood glue to the bottom edge of Piece C. Place it on the top surface of Piece A, flush with the opposite edge from where Piece B attaches. Drill pilot holes and secure with screws from the top of Piece C into Piece A.
Create the Folding Mechanism: The back support (Piece B) should now be able to fold down against Piece A. You might need to add a small notch or cut a slight bevel on Piece B where it meets Piece C when folded to allow it to lie flat.
Sand and Finish: Sand all edges and surfaces until smooth. Apply your chosen wood finish.

This stand is fantastic for travel or for tucking away when not in use.

Project 4: The Multi-Piece “Puzzle” Stand

This design is a bit more visually interesting and uses interlocking pieces, similar to the first project but with more parts for added stability and style.

What You’ll Need:

Three pieces of wood, around 3/4 inch thick.

Piece 1 (Base): 6 inches by 4 inches
Piece 2 (Back Brace): 6 inches by 3 inches
Piece 3 (Front Lip): 6 inches by 1 inch

Saw
Measuring tape
Pencil
Wood glue
Clamps
Sandpaper

Steps:

Prepare the Base (Piece 1): On the longer (6-inch) edges of Piece 1, mark a line about 1 inch from each side, running the full length. These are your main slot guides.
Cut the Base Slots: Set your saw depth to about 3/8 inch. Make several parallel cuts between your marked lines on both long edges of Piece 1. Carefully chisel out the wood between these cuts to create a groove.
Prepare the Back Brace (Piece 2): Measure about 1 inch down from the top edge of Piece 2, and mark the center line (3 inches across). On each side edge, measure about 1 inch from the end and mark the center.
Cut the Back Brace Tabs: At the marks on the side edges of Piece 2, cut notches to fit into the grooves on Piece 1. Imagine you’re cutting two ‘tabs’ that will slide into the base’s grooves. The width of these tabs should be the same distance between your parallel cuts on Piece 1.
Prepare the Front Lip (Piece 3): This piece will simply sit on the front of Piece 1 to hold the tablet.
Assemble: Apply wood glue to the side edges of Piece 2 where the tabs are. Slide these tabs into the grooves on Piece 1. Apply wood glue to the front edge of Piece 1 (that will face the user) and attach Piece 3, ensuring it presses against the inserted tabs on Piece 2.
Clamp and Cure: Clamp the assembly firmly and let the glue cure completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Sand and Finish: Once dry, sand all surfaces and edges smooth. Apply a finish if desired.

This “puzzle” style stand looks more complex than it is and makes for a conversation piece.

Table Saw vs. Miter Saw for Tablet Holders

For many of these projects, especially the slotted ones, a table saw or miter saw can make cutting grooves much faster and more accurate. Here’s a quick look at how they compare for this type of work:

Feature	Table Saw	Miter Saw	Handsaw
Accuracy for Crosscuts	High (with fence)	Very High	Moderate to High (requires skill)
Accuracy for Grooves/Dados	Excellent (with dado blade)	Limited (can make very shallow grooves with multiple passes)	Difficult to achieve consistently
Ease of Use for Beginners	Moderate (requires learning fence/blade setup)	Easy for crosscuts	Easy to start, difficult for precision
Portability	Low	Moderate	High
Best for Tablet Holders	Great for precise dados/grooves and making multiple identical pieces quickly.	Excellent for making all the straight cuts needed for simpler designs.	Sufficent for very basic projects and if you have no power tools.

If you’re looking to invest in tools for more woodworking projects, a reliable table saw is incredibly versatile for making slots and precise cuts, while a miter saw excels at quickly making straight, square cuts that are essential for many designs. For ultra-simple projects, a good handsaw and miter box can get the job done!

Finishing Touches: Sanding and Sealing

Don’t skip the sanding and finishing steps! They make a huge difference in how your woodworking projects for tablet holders look and feel.

Sanding Process:

Start with a medium grit sandpaper (around 80-120 grit) to remove any rough spots or saw marks.
Move to a finer grit (180-220 grit) to smooth out the surface.
Always sand in the direction of the wood grain.
After sanding, wipe the wood down with a tack cloth or a slightly damp cloth to remove all dust.

Finishing Options:

Wood Oil: Like linseed oil or Danish oil. These penetrate the wood, bringing out its natural color and providing a matte finish. They are easy to apply and repair.
Stain: If you want to change the color of the wood. Apply it evenly, let it soak in, and wipe off the excess.
Polyurethane or Varnish: These create a protective, durable clear coat. They come in gloss, satin, or matte finishes. Apply multiple thin coats, sanding lightly between each coat for a smooth finish.

A well-finished piece looks professional and will last much longer.

Ensuring Tablet Stability and Fit

When designing your holder, consider the size and weight of your tablet. Here are some tips for stability:

Measure Your Tablet: Always measure your tablet’s width, thickness, and height before you start cutting wood.
Groove Depth: For lip-style holders, ensure the groove or lip is deep enough to securely hold your tablet but not so deep it’s hard to remove. A depth of 1/4 to 3/8 inch is usually sufficient for most tablets.
Base Width: A wider base will provide more stability.
Angle of Recline: A steeper angle might be less stable if the tablet is heavy. Test your angles with scrap wood first.
Non-Slip Feet: Add small rubber feet or felt pads to the bottom of your stand to prevent it from sliding on smooth surfaces.

Frequently Asked Questions About Wood Tablet Holders

Q1: What kind of wood is best for making a tablet holder?
A1: For beginners, softwoods like pine or poplar are easy to work with and inexpensive. Hardwoods like oak or maple are more durable and beautiful but can be harder to cut and sand. Reclaimed wood can also be a great option!

Q2: Do I need special tools to make these projects?
A2: Not at all! You can make most of these simple designs with basic hand tools like a handsaw, sandpaper, and a screwdriver. However, power tools like a drill, miter saw, or even a table saw can speed up the process and provide cleaner cuts.

Q3: How do I ensure my tablet won’t fall out?
A3: Make sure any lip or groove designed to hold your tablet is deep enough to prevent it from sliding. You can also create a slight backward tilt on the base or back support to help it rest securely. Adding a non-slip material to the groove can also help.

Q4: Can I make a tablet holder that swivels or rotates?
A4: Yes, but that adds complexity. You would typically incorporate a Lazy Susan bearing or a simple pivot point using a bolt and nuts between two wooden pieces. This is more of an intermediate project.

Q5: What’s the easiest woodworking project for a tablet holder?
A5: The “Super Simple Slotted Stand” (Project 1 in this guide) is by far the easiest. It requires only two pieces of wood and simple cuts. It’s a fantastic first woodworking project.

Q6: How can I prevent my wood finish from peeling or chipping?
A6: Proper surface preparation is key. Ensure the wood is clean and completely dust-free before applying any finish. Apply multiple thin coats, allowing each to dry thoroughly, rather than one thick coat. Lightly sanding between coats (with fine-grit sandpaper) also helps the finish adhere better.

Conclusion

Building your own woodworking projects for tablet holders opens up a world of practical DIY solutions. Whether you choose the quick and easy slotted stand, the stable easel design, the portable folding model, or the intricate puzzle stand, you’re gaining valuable skills and creating something truly useful. These projects are perfect for beginners looking to get comfortable with woodworking tools and techniques. So, grab some wood, gather your tools, and get ready to build a custom tablet holder that perfectly suits your needs. Happy building!