Transform your memories into timeless art! This guide shows you exactly how to build beautiful picture frames with simple woodworking projects, perfect for beginners. Learn essential techniques, choose the right tools, and create custom frames that showcase your favorite photos and artwork with confidence.
There’s a special feeling in displaying a treasured photograph or a piece of artwork in a frame you made yourself. It adds a personal touch that store-bought options just can’t match. But for many beginners, the idea of woodworking projects for picture frames can seem a little daunting. You might be wondering if you have the right tools or the skills to get a clean, professional finish. Don’t worry! Building a basic wooden picture frame is a fantastic starting point for any DIYer. With a little guidance and some straightforward steps, you’ll soon be crafting beautiful frames that look like they came from a high-end gallery. We’ll walk you through everything you need to know, from selecting your wood to putting on the finishing touches.
Table of Contents
Why Build Your Own Picture Frames?
Creating your own picture frames is more than just a craft; it’s a rewarding way to express your creativity and preserve your memories. When you’re starting out in woodworking, picture frames are an excellent project because they teach fundamental skills without requiring massive investment or complex techniques.
Here’s why you should consider building your own:
Personalization: You can choose the exact wood, finish, and style to perfectly complement your photo or artwork and your home decor.
Cost-Effectiveness: While initial tool purchases are an investment, making frames can be much cheaper than buying custom-sized or unique frames.
Skill Development: You’ll learn essential woodworking techniques like precise measuring, cutting, joinery, and finishing that are transferable to countless other projects.
Unique Gifts: A handmade picture frame is a thoughtful and cherished gift for friends and family.
Satisfaction: There’s immense pride in creating something beautiful and functional with your own hands.
Essential Tools for Building Picture Frames
You don’t need a workshop full of expensive machinery to make great picture frames. For beginners, a few key tools will get you started, and you can add more as your skills and interests grow.
Here are some must-have tools:
Measuring Tape and Pencil: For accurate measurements.
Miter Saw (Chop Saw) or Hand Saw with Miter Box: This is crucial for making precise 45-degree angle cuts for the frame corners. A miter saw is faster and more accurate, but a good hand saw and miter box can also do the job well for smaller frames.
Wood Glue: A strong wood glue is essential for holding your frame joints together. Look for PVA wood glues.
Clamps: You’ll need clamps to hold the frame pieces tightly together while the glue dries. Corner clamps or band clamps are particularly useful for frames.
Sandpaper: Various grits (e.g., 120, 220) for smoothing the wood.
Safety Glasses: Always wear safety glasses when cutting or sanding wood.
Optional but Helpful Tools:
Table Saw: For ripping wood to width and making very precise cuts.
Router: With a bit to create decorative edges or a rabbet for the glass and backing.
Brad Nailer or Hammer and Finishing Nails: To reinforce the glued joints.
Square: To ensure your frame is perfectly square.
Choosing Your Wood
The type of wood you choose will significantly impact the look and feel of your finished frame. Different woods have varying grain patterns, colors, and hardness. For beginner projects, it’s often best to start with softer, more affordable woods that are easier to work with.
Here are some great wood options for picture frames:
Pine: This is a very common and affordable choice. It’s soft, easy to cut, and takes finishes well. However, it can be prone to dents and scratches.
Poplar: Similar to pine in workability and cost, poplar has a fine texture and a greenish tint that can look beautiful with certain stains. It’s a bit more durable than pine.
Oak: A hardwood that’s more durable and has a prominent grain pattern. Oak can be a bit more challenging to cut and sand than softwoods, but it yields a very strong and attractive frame.
Maple: Another hardwood that is dense and smooth. It has a subtle grain and a pale color, making it excellent for painted finishes or light stains.
Plywood (Veneer Core): While not ideal for the main frame structure, high-quality birch plywood can be used for backing or even for minimalist frames if the edges are nicely finished or taped.
Tip: Visit your local lumberyard or big box home improvement store. They often have pre-dimensioned lumber (like 1x2s or 1x3s) already cut to specific widths and thicknesses, which is perfect for beginner frame projects.
Project 1: The Simple Mitered Frame
This is the classic picture frame design, featuring four pieces of wood joined at 45-degree angles. It’s a fundamental project that teaches accuracy.
Step 1: Measure Your Artwork and Add for Rabbet
First, you need to know the exact dimensions of what you’ll be framing. Measure the width and height of your photo, print, or artwork. Let’s say your artwork is 8 inches by 10 inches.
Now, you need to account for the lip (called a rabbet) that will hold the glass, artwork, and backing in place. The rabbet is a groove cut into the back edge of the frame pieces. For simplicity in this basic project, we’ll assume you’ll guide the artwork into a pre-made frame rabbet if you buy pre-cut moulding, or you can learn to cut this yourself later. For now, let’s focus on the outer dimensions. A good rule of thumb is to make the inner opening of your frame about 1/4 inch smaller than your artwork in both dimensions. So, for an 8×10 artwork, your inner opening would be 7.75 x 9.75 inches.
Step 2: Calculate Your Wood Lengths
For a mitered frame, the length you cut each piece to is measured from the longest point of the miter.
Let’s assume you want the outer dimensions of your frame to be, for instance, 10 inches by 12 inches. You’ll need to calculate the length of each of your four frame pieces.
Here’s a simplified way to think about cutting for a frame:
1. Determine the Desired Inner Opening: Based on your artwork’s size (e.g., 8×10 inches), you’ll want an inner opening slightly smaller, say 7.75 x 9.75 inches.
2. Decide on Frame Width: This is how wide your wood stock is. Let’s say you’re using 2-inch wide wood (a 1×2, which is actually about 3/4″ thick and 1.5″ wide, or a 1×3 which is about 3/4″ thick and 2.5″ wide). For this example, let’s use a 2-inch wide piece of wood.
3. Measure from Tip to Tip: The crucial measurement for a mitered frame is from the very tip of one mitered end to the very tip of the other mitered end. This is often called the “long point” measurement.
Let’s calculate the “long point” measurement for a frame designed to hold an 8×10 piece of artwork, using 2-inch wide wood, and aiming for an inner opening of 7.75 x 9.75 inches.
For the 9.75-inch side (the height), you need an inner opening of 9.75 inches. Add the width of the wood on both sides: 9.75 + 2 (left side) + 2 (right side) = 13.75 inches (long point).
For the 7.75-inch side (the width), you need an inner opening of 7.75 inches. Add the width of the wood on both sides: 7.75 + 2 (top side) + 2 (bottom side) = 11.75 inches (long point).
So, you’ll need two pieces cut to 13.75 inches and two pieces cut to 11.75 inches, with 45-degree miters on each end, all cut so the long points meet these calculations.
Important: Always double-check your measurements before cutting!
Step 3: Make Your Cuts
This is where your miter saw or miter box comes in.
1. Set your miter saw to 45 degrees. Make sure your saw has a clear visual indicator for this angle.
2. For your first piece: Measure and mark the “long point” measurement on your wood. For example, for the longer side, mark 13.75 inches.
3. Make the cut: Align your saw blade with the mark so that it cuts away from the mark on one side, creating the 45-degree angle. The length from the long point of the cut to the long point of the next cut will be your desired frame dimension.
4. Repeat for all four pieces: Cut two pieces for the longer sides and two for the shorter sides, ensuring each has a 45-degree miter at both ends. Ensure the miters are facing the correct direction so they form a rectangle.
Tip: When setting up your cuts, it’s often best to make one 45-degree cut on a piece of scrap wood, then measure your required length from the long point of that cut, and then make the second 45-degree cut on the other end in the opposite direction. This ensures accuracy.
A common mistake is measuring the inside edge. Always measure from the long point of the miter for this method.
Step 4: Dry Fit and Assemble
Before you apply glue, lay out your four cut pieces to form a rectangle.
1. Check the Fit: Ensure the corners meet snugly and that the frame forms a perfect rectangle. Use a square to check the corners. If they’re not 90 degrees, your miters might be slightly off. You can often fix small gaps by planing or carefully sanding the mitered edges.
2. Apply Glue: Apply a generous, even bead of wood glue to the mitered faces of each corner joint. Don’t be shy, but avoid excessive squeeze-out that’s hard to clean.
3. Clamp the Frame:
Corner Clamps: These are ideal for holding two pieces together at a perfect 90-degree angle while you glue.
Band Clamp: This strap clamp wraps around the entire frame, applying even pressure to all four corners simultaneously. Adjust it snugly.
4. Reinforce (Optional but Recommended): While the glue dries, you can reinforce the corners.
Brad Nailer: Drive a couple of brad nails through the corner joint from the side. Aim them carefully so they go into the adjacent piece without splitting the wood.
Hammer and Finishing Nails: Carefully tap in small finishing nails at an angle.
5. Clean Squeeze-out: Wipe away any excess glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth immediately. Dried glue is hard to remove and can interfere with finishing.
6. Let it Dry: Allow the glue to cure completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions (usually several hours, but ideally 24 hours for maximum strength).
Step 5: Sanding and Finishing
Once the glue is dry and the frame is sturdy, it’s time for sanding and finishing.
1. Initial Sanding: Start with a medium-grit sandpaper (like 120-grit) to smooth out any rough spots, level out the joints, and remove any pencil marks. Sand with the grain of the wood.
2. Prepare for Finish: Wipe down the frame with a tack cloth or a slightly damp cloth to remove all dust.
3. Apply Finish: This is where you add color and protection.
Stain: Apply wood stain with a brush or rag, wiping off the excess according to the product’s directions.
Paint: Apply a primer followed by your chosen paint color.
Clear Coat: Apply a clear finish like polyurethane, varnish, or wax for protection and sheen. This can be done over stain.
4. Apply Multiple Coats: For a durable finish, apply 2-3 thin coats of your chosen finish, allowing adequate drying time between coats and lightly sanding with a fine-grit paper (220-grit or higher) between coats.
5. Allow to Cure: Let the finish cure fully before handling too much.
Step 6: Add Backing and Glass
Now it’s time to make your frame ready for artwork. You’ll need to cut a piece of mat board or rigid backing material (like thin plywood or MDF) and a piece of glass or acrylic to fit the opening of your frame.
1. Measure the Opening: Measure the inside dimensions of your frame where the artwork will sit. For our example, this would be approximately 7.75 x 9.75 inches.
2. Cut Glass/Acrylic: Carefully cut glass or acrylic to fit this measurement. If you’re not comfortable doing this, most hardware stores or framing shops can cut it for you.
3. Cut Backing: Cut your backing material (cardboard, thin plywood) to the same size as the glass.
4. Assemble:
Carefully place the glass into the frame’s rabbet.
Place your artwork on top of the glass.
Place your backing material on top of the artwork.
5. Secure the Backing:
Glazier Points: Small metal tabs that are pressed into the wood frame to hold the backing in place.
Brad Nails: Carefully drive small brad nails around the perimeter of the backing into the frame.
Turn Buttons: Small metal or plastic clips that screw into the frame and fold over the backing material.
Your first simple mitered picture frame is complete!
Learning to cut the rabbet into the frame pieces is a crucial skill for creating professional-looking frames. A rabbet is a step-like cut on the inside back edge of the frame moulding. This groove holds the glass, artwork, and backing securely in place. You can create a rabbet using a router with a rabbeting bit, or by making two precise cuts with a table saw. For beginners, many pre-made frame mouldings at lumber yards already have a rabbet built in, making the process much simpler!
Project 2: Enhanced Frame with a Routered Edge
Once you’re comfortable with the basic mitered frame, you might want to add a little more detail. A router with a decorative bit can transform a plain frame into something more elegant.
Step 1: Prepare Your Moulding with a Rabbet and Profile
For this project, it’s best to start with slightly wider wood stock, about 1×3 (which is roughly 3/4″ x 2.5″).
1. Cutting the Rabbet: Before you cut your frame pieces to length, you need to create the rabbet on the back inside edge of your wood. This will allow the glass, artwork, and backing to recess into the frame.
Using a Router: If you have a router with a rabbeting bit, set it up on a router table or use a handheld router with a guide. Set the depth and width of the cut to accommodate your glass, matting (if any), artwork, and backing. A common rabbet size might be 1/4 inch deep and 3/8 inch wide. Make this cut along one edge of your wood.
Using a Table Saw: You can also use a table saw. Make one cut along the edge of the board to the desired depth, then make a second cut parallel to the first, removing the material to create the rabbet. Be sure to use a “zero-clearance” insert or a thin kerf blade for best results, and always follow safe table saw practices. Refer to a comprehensive woodworking safety guide for best practices.
After cutting the rabbet, your wood piece should look like it has an ‘L’ shape along one edge when viewed from the end.
2. Adding a Decorative Edge (Optional): Once the rabbet is cut, you can use a decorative router bit (like a Roman ogee, beading, or cove bit) on the front edge of the wood to add visual interest. Make this cut before you assemble the frame.
Step 2: Cut to Length with Custom Miters
Now, you’ll cut your pieces to length, but with the rabbet and profile already made. Remember the measurements from Project 1.
1. Measure and Mark: Determine your desired inner opening size and calculate the “long point” measurement as before.
2. Cut Miters: Use your miter saw (set to 45 degrees) to cut the ends of your prepared moulding. Ensure the rabbet and decorative edge will face the correct way on the assembled frame.
Step 3: Assemble and Glue
Assemble the frame as described in Project 1, using wood glue and clamps. The internal rabbet will help align the pieces.
1. Apply Glue: Apply glue to the mitered faces.
2. Clamp Tightly: Use corner clamps or a band clamp to hold the frame.
3. Reinforce: Use brad nails or finishing nails to strengthen the joints.
4. Clean Squeeze-out: Wipe away excess glue.
5. Allow to Dry: Let the frame dry completely.
Step 4: Sanding and Finishing
1. Sand Carefully: Sand all exterior surfaces smooth. Be extra careful around the routered profile to avoid damaging the details. Start with 120-grit and move to 220-grit.
2. Clean: Remove all dust with a tack cloth.
3. Apply Finish: Apply your chosen stain, paint, or clear coat. You may want to use a small brush to get stain or finish into the routed details.
4. Multiple Coats: Apply additional coats as needed for durability and appearance.
Step 5: Install Glass, Artwork, and Backing
This is done the same way as in Project 1. The rabbet you created will neatly hold all components.
Place glass into the rabbet.
Position your artwork.
Add your backing material.
Secure the backing using glazier points, brad nails, or turn buttons.
A frame with a routered edge adds a touch of sophistication, proving that even simple woodworking projects can yield stunning results.
Project 3: The Chunky Rustic Frame
This project focuses on a simpler joinery method and embraces a more handmade, rustic aesthetic. It’s perfect for chunky photos, canvas prints, or signs where a less formal look is desired.
Step 1: Prepare Your Wood
For a rustic frame, you can use various materials. Reclaimed barn wood, for instance, adds incredible character. You can also use new lumber and distress it yourself, or choose wood with visible knots and grain. We’ll use standard 1×4 or 1×6 lumber for this.
1. Select Wood: Choose boards that are knotty, have interesting grain, or are character-rich.
2. Measure and Cut to Size: Unlike the mitered frames, this project can use butt joints (where the end of one piece meets the side of another) or half-lap joints for a stronger, more visible connection. Let’s focus on butt joints for simplicity.
For the top and bottom pieces, you’ll need two pieces of your chosen board.
For the side pieces, you’ll also need two pieces. These will overlap the top and bottom pieces.
Let’s say you want to frame a 12×12 inch canvas or artwork.
Top and Bottom Pieces: These will be cut to the width of your artwork, so 12 inches long.
Side Pieces: These will be the height of your artwork (12 inches) PLUS the thickness of your top and bottom pieces. If you’re using 3/4-inch thick wood, add 1.5 inches (0.75″ + 0.75″). So, your side pieces will be 13.5 inches long.
Diagram of Rustic Frame Joints:
| Piece Type | Quantity | Length (Example for 12×12 artwork with 3/4″ thick wood) | Joinery |
|---|---|---|---|
| Top/Bottom | 2 | 12 inches | End of piece butts into the side of the side piece. |
| Sides | 2 | 13.5 inches (12″ + 3/4″ + 3/4″) | End of piece butts into the side of the top/bottom piece. Screws/nails go through the side into the end of the top/bottom. |
Step 2: Pre-Drill Holes for Screws/Nails
For rustic frames, exposed screws or nails can be part of the aesthetic. To avoid splitting your wood, especially near the ends, it’s wise to pre-drill pilot holes.
1. Mark Joint Locations: On the side pieces, measure and mark where the ends of the top and bottom pieces will meet.
2. Drill Pilot Holes: Using a drill bit slightly smaller than your screws or nails, drill pilot holes through the side pieces and into the marked locations for the ends of the top and bottom pieces. Drill 2-3 holes per joint.
Step 3: Assemble the Frame
For a rustic look, we’ll use screws and wood glue for strong joints.
1. Apply Glue: Apply wood glue to the ends of the top and bottom pieces where they will meet the side pieces.
2. Join the Pieces: Bring the side piece and top/bottom piece together, aligning them carefully.
3. Drive Screws: Drive wood screws through your pre-drilled pilot holes to firmly connect the pieces.
4. Repeat: Repeat for all four corners.
5. Check for Square: Use a square to ensure the frame is not warped. If it’s slightly off, you might be able to adjust it before the glue fully sets. A truly rustic frame doesn’t need to be perfectly square, but it shouldn’t be drastically skewed.
6. Add More Fasteners (Optional): For extra strength, you can add finishing nails, or even decorative large-head screws or bolts if that suits your style.
Step 4: Distressing and Finishing (Optional)
If you’re not using pre-distressed wood, you can add character.
1. Distressing: Use a wire brush to scuff up the surface, a hammer to create small dents, or a rasp and sandpaper to create worn edges.
2. Sanding: Lightly sand any very rough splinters, but leave the texture and imperfections.
3. Finishing:
Wax or Oil: A simple furniture wax or a natural oil finish (like linseed oil) can protect the wood and bring out its natural color without creating a slick, artificial look.
Rubio Monocoat or Similar: These oils penetrate the wood and offer protection with a very natural, matte finish.
Distress Paint: Apply a base coat of paint (e.g., black), let it dry, then apply a lighter color (e.g., white or gray). Lightly sand or use a wet rag to remove some of the top coat, revealing the base color underneath for a worn look.
Step 5: Mount Your Artwork
For rustic frames, especially for canvas prints or signs, you’ll often attach the artwork directly to the back of the frame.
1. Position Artwork: Lay your artwork face down.
2. Place Frame: Center the frame on the back of the artwork.
3. Secure: Use screws or heavy-duty staples to attach the frame’s wood to the edges of the canvas stretcher bars or the back of the artwork.
This rustic frame project is forgiving and allows for a lot of creativity. It’s a great way to use up scrap wood and create something truly unique.
Frequently Asked Questions About Making Picture Frames
- What is the easiest wood to start with for picture frames?
- Pine is generally considered the easiest wood for beginners. It’s soft, inexpensive, easy to cut and sand, and readily available. Poplar is another excellent beginner-friendly choice that’s slightly harder than pine.
- What tool is essential for cutting perfect corners on picture frames?
- A miter saw (also called a chop saw) is the most essential tool for cutting the precise 45-degree angles needed for picture frame corners. If you don’t have a power miter saw, a good quality hand saw used with a miter box will also work, though it requires more care for accuracy.
- How do I ensure my frame corners are square?
- After gluing and clamping, use a carpenter’s square to check if the internal corners of your frame are exactly 90 degrees. If they aren’t, you can sometimes gently push the frame into a square shape before the glue fully dries, or use a band clamp to pull it square. Minor imperfections can also be hidden during the finishing process.
- What’s the difference between a rabbet and a reveal on a picture frame?
- A rabbet is a groove or step cut into the back inside edge of the frame. It is designed to hold the glass, artwork, and backing material securely within the frame. A reveal is the small visible edge of the artwork or mat that can be seen peeking through the frame opening—it’s the portion of your art not covered by the frame’s lip.
- Can I make picture frames without complicated tools?
- Yes! While some tools make it easier, you can build a basic frame with a hand saw, miter box, wood glue, clamps, sandpaper, and a hammer. The biggest challenge will be achieving perfectly square corners, which requires patience and precision with hand tools. This list of basic woodworking tools can help you get started without a huge investment.
- How deep should the rabbet be on a picture frame?
- The depth of the rabbet depends on what you need to hold. Typically, it needs to be deep enough to accommodate your glass (or acrylic), your artwork or print, and your backing material (like cardboard or foam board), plus a little extra. A common depth is between 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch.
Finishing Touches for Your Frames
Once your frame is assembled and the artwork is in place, there are a few final touches that can make a big difference:
Hanging Hardware: Attach appropriate hanging hardware to the back of your frame. For lighter frames, a D-ring hanger with wire is common. For heavier frames, heavier-duty hardware or a sawtooth hanger might be suitable. Ensure the hardware is centered and securely attached.
Dust Cover: For a professional look, you can apply a piece of kraft paper or acid-free liner to the back of the frame. This covers the backing material, protects it from dust and abrasion, and gives the entire piece a finished appearance. It can be attached with tape or glue.
Corner Bumpers: Small felt or rubber bumpers applied to the bottom corners of the frame on the back can prevent it from scratching walls when hung.
Conclusion
Building your own picture frames is an incredibly rewarding woodworking project that’s accessible to beginners. It’s a fantastic way to practice fundamental skills like precise measuring and cutting, joinery, and finishing, all while creating something beautiful and personal. From the classic mitered frame to more decorative designs, you have the power to turn your favorite memories and artwork into stunning display pieces.
Remember to always prioritize safety, take your time with measurements, and don’t be afraid to experiment. Each frame you build will teach you something new, and you’ll quickly gain the confidence to tackle more ambitious woodworking projects. So, grab some wood, gather your tools, and start creating frames that will be cherished for years to come. Happy building!