Roofing Nailer Coil Size Specifications: Essential Guide

Quick Summary:
Understanding roofing nailer coil size specifications ensures you match the right nails to your tool for secure, watertight roofing. Key specs are nail diameter (gauge), length, and collation angle, all critical for safety, performance, and preventing damage to your roofing and nailer. This guide breaks it all down simply.

Hey there, DIY roofers and handy homeowners! Jack Shaffer here, your go-to guy for all things nailers at Nailerguy. Ever stared at a pile of roofing nails, feeling a bit overwhelmed by all the choices? You’re not alone! Choosing the wrong coil size for your roofing nailer can lead to jams, poor fastening, and even damage to your expensive tool. But don’t worry! This guide is here to clear the clouds and help you find the perfect nail for your job. We’ll cut through the confusion step-by-step so you can tackle that roofing project with confidence.

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Why Roofing Nailer Coil Size Specifications Matter

Think of your roofing nailer as a precision tool. Just like you wouldn’t use a regular hammer for tiny finish nails, you need the right size and type of nail for your specific roofing nailer. The “coil size specifications” aren’t just fancy terms; they’re crucial details that determine if your nailer will fire nails correctly, if those nails will hold your shingles securely, and if your roof will be protected from the elements for years to come.

Using the wrong nails can cause a cascade of problems. They might not seat properly, leading to popped nails or shingles that can’t seal. Worse, they could jam your nailer, causing frustrating delays and potentially expensive repairs. For a job as important as roofing, getting the nail specifications right from the start is key to a safe, durable, and watertight result.

In this guide, we’ll demystify these specifications. We’ll cover nail diameter (gauge), nail length, collation type, and how these all interact with your roofing nailer. Ready to become a roofing nail expert? Let’s dive in!

Understanding the Basics: What is a Roofing Nailer Coil?

What is a Coil Nail?

Before we get into specifications, let’s quickly define what we’re talking about. A coil nail is a type of fastener designed to be used in a pneumatic (air-powered) or sometimes electric nailer. Instead of being held individually, as with many framing or finish nails, coil nails are manufactured and packaged in coils, typically holding hundreds of nails.

These nails are usually joined together side-by-side or on an angle by thin metal wires or plastic collation. This design allows the nailer to ‘feed’ nails automatically from the coil, making it incredibly efficient for high-volume tasks like roofing or siding installation. You simply load the coil into the nailer’s magazine, and each trigger pull drives one nail.

Why Coiled Nails for Roofing?

Roofing demands speed and consistency. Imagine trying to hand-nail hundreds, or even thousands, of shingles! Coil nailers are a game-changer because they:

Increase Efficiency: Load once, shoot many. This drastically speeds up the roofing process.
Ensure Consistency: Professional coil nailers are designed to drive nails to a consistent depth, which is vital for shingle performance.
Reduce Fatigue: Less manual labor means less fatigue, leading to better work quality over a long day.

The “coil size specification” refers to the characteristics of these nails that make them work perfectly with a specific type of roofing nailer.

Key Roofing Nailer Coil Size Specifications Explained

When you’re looking for nails or checking your nailer’s manual, you’ll encounter a few key terms. Let’s break them down so you know exactly what you’re looking for.

1. Nail Diameter (Gauge)

The diameter of the nail is probably the most critical specification. It’s usually expressed as a “gauge” number. Lower gauge numbers mean thicker nails, while higher gauge numbers mean thinner nails.

Gauge Number	Approximate Diameter (Inches)	Common Use
16g	0.0625″	General roofing tasks, some siding
15g	0.072″	Standard for asphalt shingles, more holding power
14g	0.080″	Heavier applications, metal roofing, thicker underlayment
12g	0.105″	Rare for standard shingles, used for very heavy-duty applications

Why it matters: The nail needs to be strong enough to penetrate the shingle and sheathing without bending, but not so thick that it splits the wood or creates an oversized hole that compromises water resistance. For standard asphalt shingles, 15-gauge nails are the most common and provide an excellent balance of holding power and minimal impact.

Lower gauges (thicker nails like 14g or 12g for roofing) offer superior holding power but can be more prone to splitting wood if not used carefully, especially in drier climates or with certain types of sheathing. Always check your nailer’s manual and shingle manufacturer’s recommendations.

2. Nail Length

Nail length is straightforward: it’s the measured length of the nail shank from the point to the underside of the nail head. Roofing nails for asphalt shingles typically range from 3/4 inch to 1-1/2 inches.

Why it matters: The nail must be long enough to securely fasten the shingle to the roof deck (sheathing). A nail that’s too short won’t have enough grip and can lead to shingles blowing off, especially in windy conditions. Conversely, a nail that’s too long can pierce through the sheathing and into the attic space, creating a potential leak point or damaging insulation.

A common recommendation for asphalt shingles is that the nail should penetrate the wood sheathing by at least 1/2 to 3/4 inch. The exact length you need will depend on the thickness of your shingles and the type of sheathing you’re using. For example:

Asphalt Shingles: Typically 1″ to 1-1/4″ nails are standard to ensure adequate penetration into plywood or OSB sheathing.
Wood Shakes/Shingles: May require longer nails (e.g., 1-1/2″) for better grip into the thicker material.
Metal Roofing: Often uses specialized fasteners, but when screws or ring-shank nails are used in some applications, their length is critical for secure attachment through the metal and into the framing or sub-structure.

Always refer to the manufacturer’s guidelines for your specific roofing material. For a general guide on proper fastening depths, you can refer to resources from organizations like the U.S. Department of Energy, which often discuss building envelope best practices.

3. Collation Angle

Collation refers to how the nails are held together in the coil. For roofing nailers, this is almost always done at an angle, which allows the tool to feed the nails efficiently. The most common collation angles for roofing are 15 degrees and 20 degrees.

Why it matters: This is where compatibility is absolutely crucial. Your roofing nailer is designed to accept nails collated at a specific angle. If you try to load nails with the wrong collation angle, they won’t feed properly into the firing chamber. This will result in consistent misfires, jams, and frustration. Always check your nailer’s manual to identify the correct collation angle it requires (e.g., “This nailer uses 15-degree coil nails”).

15-Degree Coil Nails: These have a steeper angle. They are very common for asphalt shingle roofing. The angled collation allows the nailer to be slimmer and reach into tighter spots on the roof. When you load 15-degree nails, they form a more compact coil.

20-Degree Coil Nails: These have a less steep angle. They are also used for roofing and some construction applications. The angle is more ‘flattened out.’ When loading 20-degree nails, the coil will be wider and flatter compared to a 15-degree coil.

Important Note: Do NOT mix collation angles. Using 20-degree nails in a 15-degree nailer (or vice versa) will cause feeding issues. A quick visual check often reveals the angle – 15 degrees will look noticeably more angled than 20 degrees.

4. Collation Material (Wire or Plastic)

The nails in the coil are held together by either thin steel wires or plastic. Both have pros and cons:

Wire Collation

Pros: Generally more durable in extreme temperatures, less prone to breaking apart in your hands before loading.
Cons: The wire fragments can sometimes fly off and become a minor projectile, posing a small safety risk if precautions aren’t taken. They can also be a bit more difficult to load precisely as the coil might be slightly less rigid.

Plastic Collation

Pros: Cleaner to work with, virtually no sharp wire fragments. The plastic can sometimes hold the coil together more rigidly, leading to smoother feeding. Some users find them easier to load.
Cons: Plastic can become brittle in very cold weather and might break apart more easily during handling. In extremely hot weather, some plastics might soften.

Why it matters: While both types perform the same function, the collation material can affect the loading experience and safety. Most modern roofing nailers are designed to work with either. However, extremely brittle plastic collation could potentially break off inside the nailer’s feed mechanism and cause a jam, though this is rare. Wire collation fragments are a minor safety concern to be aware of, prompting the use of safety glasses even more rigorously.

5. Ring Shank vs. Smooth Shank

This refers to the surface texture of the nail shank. For roofing, the vast majority of nails will be ring shanked.

Nail Type	Description	Pros for Roofing	Cons for Roofing
Smooth Shank	A plain, untextured shank.	Easier to drive, less likely to split very soft wood.	Significantly less holding power, prone to backing out under stress (wind uplift).
Ring Shank	Has rings encircling the shank, like tiny barbed shoulders.	Excellent holding power due to increased friction. Resists pull-out from wind uplift much better. Standard for most shingle applications.	Slightly harder to drive than smooth shank. Can potentially damage sheathing if driven excessively deep near edges.

Why it matters: Roofing is exposed to significant wind forces. Ring shank nails are designed to grip the wood fibers firmly, preventing shingles from being lifted off the roof. Using smooth shank nails for roofing is generally not recommended for asphalt shingles or most other roofing materials. Always opt for ring shank nails unless a specific application explicitly calls for smooth shank (which is rare in general roofing).

Matching Nails to Your Roofing Nailer and Material

So, how do you put all this together? It’s about compatibility and the job at hand.

Consult Your Nailer’s Manual

This is your first and most important step. Every nailer is designed for specific nail types. The manual will tell you:

The required collation angle (e.g., 15° or 20°).
The acceptable nail gauge range (e.g., 14g to 15g).
The maximum and minimum nail length your magazine can handle.
Whether it accepts wire or plastic collation.

Ignoring your nailer’s manual is the quickest way to cause problems. Think of it as the instruction booklet for your tool’s best performance.

Check Your Roofing Material Specifications

Your roofing material manufacturer will also have recommendations for the type and size of fasteners to use. This ensures their material performs as expected and maintains its warranty.

Asphalt Shingles: Typically require 15g, 1″ to 1-1/4″ ring shank nails, collated at 15 degrees.
Architectural/Laminated Shingles: Similar to standard asphalt shingles, but ensure your nailer is set to drive nails just deep enough to be covered by the overlapping shingle.
Metal Roofing: While often screwed, some metal roofing systems might use specialized nails. Nail length and gauge will be critical for proper fastening through the metal and into the substrate. Always follow manufacturer specs.
Wood Shakes/Shingles: May require 15g or 14g, longer nails (1-1/2″ or more) to penetrate the thicker wood.

Referencing reputable sources like the Building Science Corporation can provide deeper insights into best practices for building envelopes, including fastening techniques.

Galvanized vs. Stainless Steel Nails

This is a crucial consideration for longevity. Roofing nails are exposed to moisture, so corrosion resistance is key.

Galvanized Nails: These have a coating of zinc. Hot-dip galvanization provides a thicker, more durable coating than electro-galvanization. For most asphalt shingle applications, hot-dip galvanized nails (meeting ASTM A153 standards) are recommended.
Stainless Steel Nails: Offer the best corrosion resistance, especially in coastal areas or environments with high humidity or corrosive pollutants. They are more expensive but provide the longest lifespan.

Why it matters: Rusty nails weaken and can stain your roofing material. Over time, a nail head can deteriorate, compromising its grip. Always choose galvanized (ideally hot-dip) or stainless steel nails appropriate for your climate and roofing material warranty requirements.

Buying the Right Roofing Nails: A Practical Checklist

When you head to the hardware store or order online, use this checklist to make sure you grab the correct nails:

Nailer Compatibility First: What collation angle (15° or 20°) does your nailer require? What gauge range does it accept?
Roofing Material Needs: What does the shingle/roofing material manufacturer recommend for nail length and gauge?
Length: Is the nail length appropriate for your roof deck thickness and shingle type (usually 1″ to 1-1/2″)?
Gauge: Is the diameter suitable (commonly 15g for asphalt, potentially 14g for tougher jobs)?
Shank Type: Are they ring shank for optimal holding power?
Corrosion Resistance: Are they hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel for durability and to meet warranty requirements?
Collation Material: Wire or plastic? Check your preference and if your nailer has any specific recommendations.

If you’re ever unsure, take a photo of your nailer’s specification plate or its manual to the store, or call the manufacturer directly. It’s always better to double-check!

Common Roofing Nailer Coil Size Specification Mistakes to Avoid

Even with the best intentions, beginners can run into trouble. Here are some common pitfalls:

Mixing Collation Angles: As mentioned, using 15° nails in a 20° nailer or vice-versa is a guaranteed jam trigger.
Using Incorrect Gauge: A 16g nail might be too flimsy for some roofing jobs, while a 12g nail might be overkill and could potentially damage shingles or sheathing if over-driven.
Nails Too Short or Too Long: This directly impacts holding power and the risk of leaks.
Choosing Smooth Shank Nails: They simply don’t offer the holding power needed to resist wind uplift.
Using Non-Galvanized Nails: Rust is the enemy of a long-lasting roof.
Not Reading the Tool Manual: This is the golden rule of tool usage!

By being aware of these common mistakes, you’re already one step ahead in ensuring a successful roofing project.

FAQ: Your Roofing Nail Questions Answered

Q1: What is the most common roofing nailer coil size specification for asphalt shingles?

A: For standard asphalt shingles, the most common specifications are 15-gauge (15g) ring shank nails, typically 1-1/4 inches long, with a 15-degree collation angle. They should be hot-dip galvanized for best corrosion resistance.