What Nail Gun to Use for Shiplap: Essential Guide

Quick Summary: For shiplap installation, a 16-gauge or 18-gauge finish nailer is your best bet. These nailers provide enough holding power without damaging the wood, ensuring a clean, professional look for your project.

Hey there, fellow DIYers! Jack Shaffer here, your go-to guy for all things nailing. If you’re looking to add that charming shiplap look to your home, you’ve probably stumbled upon the big question: which nail gun is the right one for the job? It can feel a bit daunting with all the options out there, but don’t worry! Getting that perfect shiplap finish is totally achievable, and picking the right nailer is the first big step. We’ll break it down simply so you can nail this project with confidence.

This guide is designed to cut through the confusion. We’ll cover the best nail gun types, what specifications matter, and how to make the final choice. By the end, you’ll know exactly what tool to grab and why it’s the perfect match for your shiplap installation.

Choosing the Right Nail Gun for Shiplap: A Beginner’s Roadmap

Shiplap has made a huge comeback, and for good reason! Its clean lines and classic appeal can transform a room. Whether you’re creating a feature wall in your living room, a stunning backsplash in the kitchen, or a cozy vibe in a bedroom, the key to a professional-looking shiplap installation is consistent, clean fastening. This is where the right nail gun comes in. Using the wrong tool can lead to unsightly dents, split wood, or nails that just don’t hold.

As your “Nailerguy” expert, my goal is to make this decision as easy as pie. We’ll explore the different types of nail guns that can handle shiplap, focusing on what makes them suitable and what to look out for. Forget the industry jargon; we’re talking practical advice for real projects. Let’s dive in and find the perfect nail gun that will have your shiplap looking fantastic in no time!

Understanding Nail Gun Gauges: The Size of the Nail Matters!

When we talk about nail guns, “gauge” is one of the most important terms you’ll hear. Think of gauge as the thickness of the nail. A lower gauge number means a thicker nail, and a higher gauge number means a thinner nail. For shiplap, we want nails that are strong enough to hold the wood securely against your wall, but not so thick that they split the wood or leave gaping holes that are hard to conceal.

This is precisely why finish nailers are the stars of the shiplap show. They drive nails that are slender enough for a clean finish but robust enough for the job.

16-Gauge vs. 18-Gauge Nailers: The Shiplap Sweet Spot

The two most common nail guns for shiplap are the 16-gauge and 18-gauge finish nailers. Let’s break down what each one brings to the table:

• 16-Gauge Finish Nailer: This is often considered the workhorse for shiplap. It drives nails that are about 1.6mm in diameter. These nails offer excellent holding power and are substantial enough for most standard shiplap profiles, especially if you’re working with slightly thicker wood or need extra reassurance. The nail heads are also small enough to be easily countersunk or filled, leaving a very discreet mark.
• 18-Gauge Brad Nailer: An 18-gauge nailer drives even thinner nails, around 1.0mm in diameter. While often used for more delicate trim work, an 18-gauge can work well for shiplap, particularly if you’re using very thin or lightweight shiplap boards. The advantage here is minimal damage to the wood and very small, almost invisible nail holes. However, for heavier shiplap, you might question its holding power over time.

In short, both can get the job done, but the 16-gauge often offers a bit more confidence for a wider range of shiplap thicknesses and applications. If you’re debating between the two for shiplap, a 16-gauge is usually the slightly safer, more versatile bet for beginners.

What to Look for in a Shiplap Nail Gun

Beyond just the gauge, a few other features can make your life easier when installing shiplap:

• Adjustable Depth Setting: This is crucial! It allows you to control how deep the nail is driven into the wood. You want the nail to be fully countersunk (slightly below the surface) so you can easily fill the hole, but not so deep that it blows through the other side or creates a huge crater.
• Mains Powered (Electric/Corded) vs. Battery Powered vs. Pneumatic:
  • Pneumatic (Air Nailers): These are traditionally the most powerful and reliable, connecting to an air compressor. They are often lighter in the hand than battery models. However, you’ll need to manage the air hose and compressor.
  • Electric (Corded Nailers): A good option if you don’t have a compressor and want to avoid batteries. They plug directly into an outlet. Power can sometimes be a limitation on thicker materials compared to pneumatic.
  • Battery Powered Nailers: The ultimate in convenience! No cords, no hoses. Modern battery-powered nailers are powerful and offer fantastic freedom of movement. The main considerations are battery life and the initial cost, which can be higher.
• Sequential vs. Bump Fire Trigger:
  • Sequential Trigger: You must intentionally press the nose of the gun against the wood and then pull the trigger to drive a nail. This is safer and offers more precision, good for beginners and critical placements.
  • Bump Fire Trigger: You can hold the trigger down and “bump” the nose of the gun against the wood to fire nails rapidly. This is faster for long runs but requires more practice to avoid accidental firing. For shiplap, where precise placement is often key for a clean look, a sequential trigger is generally recommended for beginners.
• Jam Release Mechanism: Nail jams happen. A tool-free jam release makes clearing these minor annoyances quick and painless, keeping your project momentum going.
• Ergonomics and Weight: You’ll be holding this tool for a while, so make sure it feels comfortable in your hand and isn’t excessively heavy.

Recommended Nail Gun Types for Shiplap Installation

Based on the above, here are the top contenders for your shiplap projects:

1. 16-Gauge Finish Nailer

Pros:

• Excellent holding power for most shiplap.
• Drives nails that are easy to conceal.
• Versatile for other trim and molding projects.
• Less likely to split the wood than a heavier nailer.

Cons:

• Can be slightly bulkier than an 18-gauge nailer.
• Requires appropriately sized nails (ensure they aren’t too long that they hit studs and come out the other side).

2. 18-Gauge Brad Nailer

Pros:

• Leaves very small, almost invisible nail holes.
• Lighter and more maneuverable.
• Great for very thin or delicate shiplap.

Cons:

• Less holding power; might not be sufficient for heavier shiplap.
• Risk of splitting wood if the nail hits a knot or is driven too close to an edge (though still less than a framing nailer!).

3. Cordless vs. Pneumatic (for 16-Gauge)

This is more a POWER source decision, not a nailer type decision. If you opt for a 16-gauge finish nailer, you’ll then choose its power source:

• Cordless 16-Gauge Battery Nailer: Freedom! No hoses, no compressors. Modern battery tech has made these powerful and efficient. Brands like DeWalt, Ryobi, Paslode, and Senco offer excellent options. This is often the top choice for DIYers due to its ease of use and portability.
• Pneumatic 16-Gauge Nailer: Requires an air compressor and hose. Generally lighter in the hand than battery models and often less expensive upfront for the tool itself. If you already own a compressor or plan on doing a lot of air-powered nail gun work, this is a solid choice. For safety guidelines on air compressors, it’s always good to check resources like OSHA’s Compressed Air Systems Safety page.

Step-by-Step: Installing Shiplap with Your Nail Gun

Now that you’ve chosen your nail gun, let’s get to the fun part – installation! Here’s a simplified process:

1. Safety First! Always wear safety glasses. Ensure your nail gun is clear of nails and disconnected from power (battery removed or air disconnected) when not in active use or when making adjustments. Read your nail gun’s manual thoroughly before starting.
2. Prepare Your Wall: Make sure your wall is clean, dry, and relatively flat. Locate wall studs if your shiplap is very heavy or if your installation manual recommends it. A stud finder is incredibly useful here. You don’t always need to hit studs with shiplap if the boards are light and the gun is set correctly, as the overlap often provides stability, but it adds security.
3. Position Your First Board: Start at the bottom or top of your wall, depending on your desired look and how you plan to finish the edges. Ensure the board is level. For the first board, you might want to secure it to studs if possible for a solid foundation.
4. Set Your Nail Gun Depth: This is vital. Perform a test shot on a scrap piece of the same shiplap material. Adjust the depth setting so the nail head is just slightly below the surface of the wood. You want it embedded enough to be hidden by paint or wood filler, but not so deep that it blows out the wood or creates a large divot.
5. Nail Your Shiplap:
   • For most shiplap, you’ll want to nail through the board and into the wall structure (studs if applicable).
   • If using traditional shiplap where one board overlaps the groove of the one below, you’ll typically nail through the face of the board into the stud.
   • For a cleaner look, some prefer to nail into the “tongue”—the lip that extends from the back of the board, hidden by the overlap of the next board. This method uses the overlap to hold the nail head captive, leaving zero visible nail holes on the face. This requires a bit more precision and practice!
   • Fire the nailer by pressing the nose against the wood and pulling the trigger (if using sequential fire). Aim for consistent spacing and placement.
6. Continue Board by Board: Overlap each subsequent board according to the shiplap profile. Use a level frequently to ensure your boards remain straight.
7. Finishing Touches: Once all boards are up, you can fill any nail holes with wood filler or putty. Lightly sand the filled areas once dry, and then you’re ready for paint or stain!

Nail Gun Features Comparison Table

To help you visualize the differences, here’s a quick comparison:

Common Pitfalls to Avoid with Your Shiplap Nail Gun

Even with the right tool, a few common mistakes can pop up. As your Nailerguy, I want to help you sidestep them:

• Overdriving Nails: This means pushing the nail too deep. It can create a large hole or even blow through the wood, especially on thinner boards or near edges. Always set your depth correctly and do test shots.
• Underdriving Nails: The opposite problem – the nail head sits proud of the surface. This makes it hard to fill and can snag surfaces. Adjust your depth setting if this happens.
• Not Checking for Air Leaks (Pneumatic): An air leak means inconsistent power and can lead to underdriven nails. Ensure all connections are tight.
• Using the Wrong Nail Length: Nails that are too long can go through your shiplap and into your wall material, potentially creating an unsightly bump, or worse, into electrical wiring or plumbing if you miss your target. Always think about the total thickness of your shiplap plus any substrate/furring strips you’re attaching it to, and choose a nail length that will penetrate the wall stud sufficiently for grip without over-penetrating. For most standard shiplap and drywall, a 1 1/2″ to 2″ nail is common.
• Forgetting About Material Swelling/Shrinking: Wood can expand and contract with humidity changes. While shiplap’s overlapping nature helps, over-nailing can restrict this natural movement. Aim for secure but not excessively tight fastening.
• Working in Tight Spaces: If you’re doing a small accent area, consider the maneuverability of your nail gun. Smaller, lighter models might be easier to handle in cramped spots.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about Shiplap Nail Guns