Making a Wooden Soap Dish and Bathroom Set: Effortless Essentials

Make a beautiful, handmade wooden soap dish and matching bathroom set to add a touch of natural elegance to your home. This beginner-friendly guide breaks down the simple steps, ensuring you can craft functional and attractive essentials with ease.

Tired of soggy soap and a cluttered countertop? A handmade wooden soap dish is a game-changer for any bathroom. It keeps your favorite bar dry, prolongs its life, and adds a touch of natural warmth. But why stop there? Imagine a matching toothbrush holder or a small tray for your rings and earrings, all crafted from wood. Sounds like a lot of work? Don’t worry! We’ll walk through creating both a simple soap dish and a few complementary pieces, making your bathroom essentials both practical and pretty. Get ready to elevate your bathroom with these effortless woodworking projects!

Table of Contents

Why Wood for Your Bathroom?

Wood brings a unique charm to any space, and the bathroom is no exception. It adds a touch of warmth and organic beauty that plastic or metal accessories just can’t replicate. Beyond aesthetics, choosing wood for your bathroom set offers several advantages.

Natural Beauty: The grain patterns and natural colors of wood create a serene and inviting atmosphere.
Durability: With the right wood and finish, your wooden bathroom items can last for years, standing up to daily use.
Sustainability: Opting for sustainably sourced wood or even reclaimed lumber is an eco-friendly choice.
Customization: You can tailor sizes, shapes, and finishes to perfectly match your bathroom’s style.

Of course, wood needs a little care in a humid environment. We’ll cover the best finishes to protect your creations.

Gathering Your Tools and Materials

You don’t need a professional workshop to make these projects. Here’s a simple list of what you’ll need. I’ll focus on tools that are common for beginners and easy to find.

Essential Tools for Your Woodworking Set

When starting out, it’s best to have a few reliable tools. These will serve you well for this project and many others.

Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements.
Pencil: For marking your cuts.
Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes!
Sandpaper: Assorted grits (like 120, 180, and 220) for smoothing.
Clamps: Several small to medium clamps to hold pieces while gluing or finishing.
Wood Glue: A good quality PVA wood glue.
Orbital Sander (Optional but Recommended): Makes sanding much faster and easier. If you don’t have one, good old-fashioned elbow grease works too!
Hand Saw or Miter Saw: For cutting your wood to size. A miter saw makes precise, straight cuts much simpler. If using a hand saw, a miter box can help guide your cuts.
Drill: For making drainage holes and pilot holes if you opt for a multi-piece design.
Drill Bits: Various sizes, including a slightly larger bit for drainage holes.
Jigsaw (Optional): Useful for curved designs or cutting notches.
Router (Optional): For rounding edges or creating decorative profiles, but not essential for beginners.

Choosing Your Wood

Not all woods are created equal, especially for bathroom items. You want something that can handle moisture and looks good. For beginners, working with softwood like pine or poplar is usually easier.

Pine: Inexpensive, readily available, and easy to work with. It’s a great choice for your first project. You’ll just need to ensure a good waterproof finish due to its absorbency.
Poplar: A bit harder than pine but still easy to cut and sand. It takes finishes well and is a good balance of cost and durability.
Cedar: Naturally resistant to moisture and insects. It also has a wonderful scent! Cedar can be a bit more expensive.
Oak or Maple: These hardwoods are more durable and moisture-resistant. They are harder to work with and more expensive, so they might be better for your second or third project.

For this guide, we’ll assume you’re using a standard 1×4 or 1×6 board (which is actually about ¾ inch thick and 3.5 or 5.5 inches wide, respectively). You can find these at any home improvement store. You won’t need much – a single 6-foot board should be enough for several items.

Finishing Touches: Protecting Your Wood

To make sure your wooden bathroom set stands up to humidity and water splashes, a protective finish is crucial. Avoid using just any old paint or varnish. Look for finishes that are specifically recommended for bathrooms or kitchens, as they are designed for moisture resistance.

Polyurethane (Water-Based): This is a fantastic option for beginners. It’s easy to apply, dries relatively quickly, and offers excellent water protection. Look for a satin or semi-gloss finish, as these tend to hide imperfections better than a high gloss. A low-VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) water-based polyurethane is also a healthier choice for indoor use.
Varnish: Similar to polyurethane, varnish offers great protection. Marine spar varnish is extremely durable and waterproof, designed for harsh conditions.
Water-Resistant Sealant: Some natural oil-based sealants can be effective if applied in multiple coats, but polyurethane is generally more robust for bathroom environments.

Make sure the area where you apply finishes is well-ventilated. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application and drying times. Usually, two to three coats are recommended for good protection.

Project 1: The Effortless Wooden Soap Dish

This is the heart of our bathroom set. It’s simple, functional, and incredibly satisfying to make. We’ll focus on a solid block design with drainage, but I’ll mention a few variations.

Step-by-Step: Wooden Soap Dish (Solid Block Design)

This design uses a single piece of wood. The key is creating channels for water to escape and keeping the bottom elevated.

Step 1: Measure and Cut Your Wood

For a basic soap dish, a piece of wood that’s about 4 to 5 inches long is perfect. We’ll use a 1×4 board for this example.

Measure and mark a piece of your 1×4 board to be 5 inches long.
Using your saw, carefully cut the wood. Aim for straight, square cuts. Wear your safety glasses!

You should now have a small rectangular block, approximately 5 inches long and 3.5 inches wide (or whatever width your board is).

Step 2: Mark Your Drainage Channels

This is what keeps your soap from sitting in a puddle. We’ll cut shallow grooves on the top surface.

Turn the block so the widest surface is facing up. This will be the top of your soap dish.
Using your measuring tape and pencil, draw two parallel lines about ¾ inch from each of the long edges. These lines will guide where you’ll cut the channels.
Now, draw two more lines in the center, running parallel to the first two, about ¾ inch apart from each other. You’ll end up with three sections on top: one wider section in the middle and two narrower sections on the sides.

Alternatively, you can just mark a few diagonal lines across the surface, or even just two central channels. Simplicity is key here!

Step 3: Create the Drainage Channels

This is where a router is ideal, but we can achieve it with other tools too.

Option A (Using a Jigsaw or Router): If you have a jigsaw, you can set the depth shallowly and carefully cut along your marked lines. A router with a straight bit is even easier. Set the depth to about ¼ inch. Carefully guide the router along your pencil lines. Take your time and make multiple shallow passes if needed rather than trying to cut deep in one go.
Option B (Using a Dremel or Carving Tool): A Dremel tool with a small carving bit can also be used to create shallower grooves. This will take more time but is effective for small details.
Option C (Using a Saw and Chisel): For a rustic look and if you don’t have power tools, you can carefully make several closely spaced saw kerfs (cuts) along your lines and then use a sharp chisel to even them out. Be very careful if using a chisel.

The goal is to create shallow, angled grooves that will allow water to run off the sides.

Step 4: (Optional) Add Drainage Holes

Some people like to drill small holes in the bottom of the soap dish to ensure no water gets trapped. This is especially useful if your dish will sit directly on a surface without air circulation.

Flip the soap dish over to the bottom side.
Using a drill bit (around ¼ inch is good), drill two or three holes through the bottom. Space them out evenly.

Step 5: Sand Everything Smooth

This is where the magic happens, turning rough wood into a smooth, touchable piece.

Start with a coarser grit sandpaper (like 120) to remove any saw marks or rough edges.
Work your way up to finer grits (180 and then 220).
Pay special attention to the edges and corners. Round them slightly for a more pleasant feel.
If you used a jigsaw or router for the channels, lightly sand them as well to smooth out any tool marks.
Wipe away all dust with a clean cloth or tack cloth.

Step 6: Apply the Finish

Time to protect your beautiful creation!

In a well-ventilated area, apply your chosen finish (water-based polyurethane is a great beginner choice). Read the product’s instructions.
Use a good quality brush and apply thin, even coats. Work with the wood grain.
Let the first coat dry completely. Lightly sand with very fine grit sandpaper (220 or higher) to knock down any raised grain and create a smoother surface for the next coat. Wipe clean.
Apply a second coat, and a third if desired. Three thin coats are usually better than one thick one.
Allow the finish to cure fully according to the product directions before using it. This can take a few days for full hardness.

And there you have it! A simple, elegant wooden soap dish.

Soap Dish Variations to Consider:

Slatted Design: Instead of cutting channels, cut several thin slats of wood and glue them together with small gaps between them. This is more complex but offers excellent drainage.
Multi-Piece Construction: Cut a base and then four small side pieces to create a box. This is also more involved but allows for more design flexibility.
Carving: For the more adventurous, use carving tools to create patterns or shapes on the surface before finishing.

Project 2: Matching Wooden Toothbrush Holder

Let’s build on the skill you just learned! A toothbrush holder is another easy project that complements your soap dish perfectly.

Step-by-Step: Wooden Toothbrush Holder

We’ll make a simple, solid block design with holes for the toothbrushes.

Step 1: Measure and Cut Your Wood

A good size for a toothbrush holder is about 3-4 inches square, and 4-5 inches tall. Let’s use a 1×4 board and cut three pieces.

Cut two pieces of your 1×4 board to be 4 inches long. These will be the sides.
Cut one piece to be 3.5 inches long. This will be the front (or back).
Cut another piece to be 3.5 inches long. This will be the other side.
Cut another piece to be 3.5 inches x 3.5 inches square. This will be the base. You might need to rip the board down or use a wider board (like a 1×6) for this piece to make it square. If you have a 1×4 (3.5″ wide), you can cut a 4″ long piece and then cut that in half width-wise (if your saw can do it precisely) or simply use two 3.5″ widths to create 7″ length to glue together and then cut into 4″ height. For absolute beginners, let’s simplify: take a 4-inch long piece of 1×4 (3.5″ wide) and another 4-inch long piece of 1×4. Glue them side-by-side so you get a piece about 7 inches wide and 4 inches tall. Cut it down to 4 inches tall and 4 inches wide. Or, even simpler, find a scrap piece of plywood or a thicker block of wood that is already roughly 4″x4″ and 4″ tall. Let’s assume for this guide you have a 4″x4″x4″ block or can create one by gluing two 1×4 pieces together.

You should have one 4″x4″x4″ block, two pieces approximately 4″x3.5″, and one piece approximately 3.5″x3.5″. Wait, this is getting complex. Let’s simplify. We will make a toothbrush holder from ONE block of wood if possible. Let’s assume you have a board that is at least 4 inches wide and 1.5 inches thick (a 2×4, cut down). Or, you can glue two 1x4s together to make a block that is 3.5″ x 3.5″ x 4″ high. Let’s go with the double-board glued option.

Revised Step 1: Cutting the Wood for a Toothbrush Holder

Take two boards, each 4 inches long, that are the same width (e.g., two 1x4s, so they are 3.5″ wide).
Apply wood glue to the long edge of one board.
Press the long edge of the second board against the glued edge, creating a wider board approximately 7 inches wide and 4 inches tall. Clamp them firmly together. Let the glue dry completely.
Once dry, you have a block that is roughly 7 inches wide and 4 inches tall. Now, cut this block down to be 4 inches wide. This will give you a piece that is approximately 4 inches x 4 inches x 4 inches.
To create the holes, you’ll need two or three holes on the top surface. For two toothbrushes, you might want them spaced about 1.5 to 2 inches apart.

Step 2: Mark the Hole Placements

This is crucial for easy access and to prevent toothbrushes from overcrowding.

On the 4″ x 4″ top surface of your block, use your measuring tape and pencil to mark where the center of each hole will be.
For two toothbrushes, mark two points about 1.5 to 2 inches apart from each other, centered on the surface. For example, measure 2 inches from one side and 2 inches from there to the other side.

Step 3: Drill the Holes

The size of the drill bit depends on your toothbrushes. Most standard toothbrushes have handles around ¼ inch to ½ inch thick.

Select a drill bit that is slightly larger than the handle of your toothbrushes. A ½ inch or 5/8 inch drill bit is often a good starting point. Better to be a little too big than too small.
Attach the drill bit securely to your drill.
Wearing safety glasses, carefully drill straight down into the marked spots. Drill to a depth that allows the toothbrush head to sit above the holder, so about 3 inches deep.
If you’re worried about drilling straight, you can create a jig or use a drill press if available. For a beginner, taking it slow and steady is often enough.

Step 4: Sand Everything Smooth

Just like the soap dish, smooth edges are important for comfort and appearance.

Start with 120 grit sandpaper to remove any rough edges from cutting or drilling.
Move up to 180 and then 220 grit for a silky smooth finish.
Don’t forget to lightly sand the inside edges of the drilled holes if accessible.
Wipe away all dust with a clean cloth.

Step 5: Apply the Finish

Use the same moisture-resistant finish you used for the soap dish.

Apply 2-