How to Make Stunning Wooden TV Stand Storage

Build a beautiful, functional wooden TV stand with ample storage that brings style and organization to your living room. This guide breaks down the process into simple steps, perfect for beginners, so you can create a custom piece you’ll be proud of.

Hey there, fellow DIYers! Jack Shaffer here, your guide from Nailerguy. Are you tired of that cluttered TV area? Maybe your current setup just doesn’t do your awesome flat-screen justice. Building your own wooden TV stand with storage is a fantastic way to solve both problems. It’s more achievable than you might think, and the satisfaction of using your own creativity and a few key tools is unbeatable. Don’t worry if you’re new to woodworking; we’ll walk through this together, step by step. Get ready to transform your living space!

Table of Contents

Why Build Your Own Wooden TV Stand with Storage?

Let’s face it, off-the-shelf TV stands can be pricey and often don’t have the exact storage solutions you need. Plus, they might not match your home’s unique style. Building your own gives you complete control over the design, dimensions, wood type, and finish. You can create a piece that perfectly fits your space, houses all your media devices, and adds a personalized touch to your home. It’s a rewarding project that combines practicality with craftsmanship.

Benefits Over Store-Bought:

Customization: Design it to fit your TV size, room dimensions, and specific storage needs (think shelves for gaming consoles, drawers for remotes, or cabinets for DVDs).
Cost-Effectiveness: You can often build a high-quality stand for less than you’d pay for a comparable pre-made unit, especially if you source your lumber wisely.
Quality Materials: Choose the wood you love – from sturdy oak to cost-effective pine – and ensure solid construction that will last.
Sense of Accomplishment: There’s nothing quite like the pride of saying, “I made this!”
Skill Development: It’s a great project to hone your woodworking skills, learn new techniques, and get comfortable with your tools.

Planning Your Wooden TV Stand with Storage

Before you even think about picking up a saw, a solid plan is your best friend. This is where you get to be the designer and engineer! Think about what you need your TV stand to do. How big is your TV? What devices do you need to store (cable box, game consoles, soundbar, streaming devices)? What about remotes, controllers, or extra cables? Do you prefer open shelves, closed cabinets, or drawers? Sketching your ideas is key.

Step 1: Design and Dimensions

Start with a simple sketch. A basic rectangle is a great starting point, but you can add complexity as you get more comfortable. Measure your TV’s width, depth, and height. Also, measure the depth of any components you plan to store, like a PlayStation or AV receiver, to ensure they’ll fit comfortably. Consider the overall height that works best for your viewing angle. Most people find a stand height between 18 and 24 inches to be comfortable.

Think about the interior dimensions of your storage areas. Most modern TVs don’t need super deep stands, but components often do. Allow for ventilation for electronics, too – don’t pack them in too tightly!

Step 2: Choosing Your Materials

This is where your TV stand starts to take shape visually and structurally. Your choice of wood will impact the look, durability, and cost of your project.

Plywood: A fantastic choice for beginners. It’s stable, comes in large sheets, and can be very cost-effective. Birch or oak plywood offers a smooth, paintable or stainable surface.
Solid Wood (Pine): Pine is a soft wood that’s budget-friendly and easy to work with. It takes stain nicely but can also dent more easily than hardwoods.
Solid Wood (Hardwoods like Oak, Maple, Walnut): These woods are beautiful, durable, and hold up well to wear. They are more expensive and can be a bit harder to work with for a first-time builder, but the results are stunning.
Hardware: Don’t forget hinges for doors, drawer slides if you’re adding drawers, screws, wood glue, and any decorative hardware like knobs or pulls.

For stability and a professional look, using cabinet-grade plywood (like birch or maple) for the main cabinet and solid wood for accent pieces or shelves is a popular approach.

Step 3: Creating a Cut List

Once your design is finalized, break it down into individual pieces. This is your “cut list.” Be precise with your measurements. For a simple TV stand, you might have:

Top panel
Bottom panel
Two side panels
Back panel (often thinner material or strips)
Shelves (fixed or adjustable)
Door fronts, sides, and backs (if building cabinets)
Drawer fronts, sides, backs, and bottoms (if building drawers)

This list will guide your lumber purchases and cuts. It’s also helpful to plan for the actual dimensions after assembly. For example, if you’re using 3/4-inch thick plywood, the width of your shelves and top/bottom panels will be the overall width minus twice the thickness of your side panels.

Gathering Your Tools and Supplies

Having the right tools makes the job easier, safer, and produces better results. You don’t need a professional workshop, but a few key items will serve you well.

Essential Tools:

Tape Measure: For accurate measurements.
Pencil: For marking your cuts.
Safety Glasses: Non-negotiable! Protect your eyes.
Hearing Protection: Especially when using power tools.
Circular Saw or Miter Saw: For making straight cuts. A circular saw with a guide or a miter saw can make very accurate cuts. If you’re using plywood, a table saw is ideal for rip cuts and crosscuts.
Drill/Driver: For drilling pilot holes and driving screws.
Clamps: Essential for holding pieces together while glue dries or while you’re fastening them.
Sanding Tools: A random orbital sander is great for larger surfaces. Sandpaper in various grits (e.g., 120, 180, 220) is needed for smoothing.
Wood Glue: Creates a strong bond.
Screws: Wood screws sized appropriately for your material thickness.

Optional but Helpful Tools:

Jigsaw: For cutting curves or notches.
Router: For creating decorative edges or dados (grooves for shelves).
Pocket Hole Jig: Makes strong, hidden joinery very easy, especially for a beginner. Kreg Tool is a popular brand.
Orbital Sander: Speeds up the sanding process significantly.
Nail Gun: A brad nailer or finish nailer can be useful for attaching trim or holding pieces while glue dries, but screws are perfectly adequate for good joinery.

Supplies Checklist:

Lumber (plywood and/or solid wood based on your design)
Wood screws
Wood glue
Sandpaper (various grits)
Wood filler (optional, for filling screw holes)
Primer and paint, or wood stain and sealant
Hinges, drawer slides, knobs/pulls (if applicable)
Construction adhesive (optional, for extra strength on large panels)

Building Your TV Stand: Step-by-Step

Let’s get building! We’ll cover a basic but functional TV stand with open shelving, which is a great starting point. We’ll also touch on adding doors.

Step 4: Cutting Your Wood

Using your cut list, carefully measure and mark your lumber. Accuracy here is crucial! If you’re new to cutting, consider having your lumber cut at the hardware store if they offer that service. If you’re cutting yourself, take your time and ensure your cuts are straight and square. A straight edge guide for your circular saw can make a big difference.

Safety Tip: Always wear safety glasses and hearing protection when operating power tools. Ensure your work area is clear and well-lit. Never force a saw; let it do the work.

Step 5: Assembling the Cabinet Box

This is the main structure. A common method is to attach the side panels to the bottom panel, then add the top panel. For strong joints without visible screw heads on the outside, consider using pocket holes or edge-joining with glue and screws.

Method 1: Edge Joining with Glue and Screws

Apply a generous amount of wood glue to the edge of the bottom panel where a side panel will attach.
Position the side panel flush with the edge.
Drill pilot holes through the side panel into the edge of the bottom panel. This prevents the wood from splitting.
Drive screws through the pilot holes to secure the pieces.
Repeat for the other side panel.
Attach the top panel similarly, driving screws down through the top into the edges of the side panels.

Method 2: Using a Pocket Hole Jig

If you have a pocket hole jig (like a Kreg Jig), this is a great time to use it. Drill pocket holes on the underside or inside faces of your top and bottom panels. Then, apply glue and use the provided pocket hole screws to attach the side panels.

Kreg Pocket-Hole Jigs are excellent for creating strong, hidden joints that make your projects look more professional.

Step 6: Adding Shelves

There are a few ways to install shelves:

Fixed Shelves: You can simply glue and screw these in place from the outside (less aesthetic) or use pocket holes from underneath the shelf into the side panels. Alternatively, dadoes (grooves) cut into the side panels provide excellent support.
Adjustable Shelves: This involves drilling evenly spaced holes on the inside faces of the side panels using a shelf pin jig. You then insert shelf pins into these holes and rest the shelf on top. This offers great flexibility.

For our basic open-shelf stand, let’s assume fixed shelves. Apply glue to the edges of the shelf and the inside of the cabinet. Position the shelf and secure it using pocket holes drilled from underneath into the sides, or by screwing through the side panels into the shelf ends if you don’t mind filling the holes.

Step 7: Attaching the Back Panel

The back panel adds rigidity and prevents your stand from racking (wobbling side-to-side). You can use a thin piece of plywood (1/4-inch is common) or several wood strips. Cut it to fit the back opening. Apply glue to the edges of the cabinet. Position the back panel and secure it with small brad nails or screws, spaced every 6-8 inches. Ensure the cabinet is square before attaching the back – the back panel will lock it in that shape.

Step 8: Adding Doors or Drawers (Optional)

For Doors:

Build simple box carcasses for any cabinet sections.
Cut door fronts to size, ensuring they slightly overhang the opening for a professional look.
Attach hinges to the doors and then to the cabinet frame, following the hinge manufacturer’s instructions. You might need to cut out recesses (mortises) for the hinges to sit flush.
Install magnetic catches or other hardware.

For Drawers:

Build simple drawer boxes using box joints or butt joints with glue and screws.
Install drawer slides according to their instructions, attaching one part to the drawer and the other to the cabinet interior.
Cut drawer fronts to size, then attach them to the drawer boxes.
Add knobs or handles.

Drawer slides and hinges can be tricky; take your time and follow the specific instructions for your hardware. For instance, the Woodsmith Shop offers great visual guides on installing various types of drawer slides.

Step 9: Sanding and Finishing

This is where your stand goes from looking like raw wood to a polished piece of furniture. Start with a medium grit sandpaper (around 120) and sand all surfaces. Progress to finer grits (180, then 220) for a smooth finish. Pay attention to edges and corners. Fill any screw holes or imperfections with wood filler, let it dry, and then sand smooth.

Finishing Options:

Paint: Apply a good quality primer, followed by two coats of your chosen paint.
Stain: Apply wood stain to color the wood, then seal it with a protective topcoat like polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer.
Natural: Simply apply multiple coats of a clear sealant for a durable, natural look.

Always work in a well-ventilated area and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your chosen finish. Apply thin, even coats and allow adequate drying time between them.

Helpful Tips for Beginners

Don’t get discouraged if your first cut isn’t perfect or a screw goes in a little crooked. Every builder has been there! Here are some tips to make your project smoother:

Measure Twice, Cut Once: This old adage is practically a woodworking mantra. Double-checking your measurements saves time and material.
Use a Square: A carpenter’s square or speed square is invaluable for marking straight lines and ensuring your corners are 90 degrees.
Pilot Holes Are Your Friend: Always drill pilot holes for screws, especially in hardwoods or near the edge of boards, to prevent splitting.
Glue is Strong: Don’t skimp on wood glue. It creates a bond that is often stronger than the wood itself. Wipe away excess glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth before it dries.
Test Fit Everything: Before permanently fastening, dry-fit your pieces to ensure they align correctly.
Start Simple: If this is your first project, choose a straightforward design. You can always build something more complex later.
Watch Videos: Seeing joinery techniques or finishing processes demonstrated can be incredibly helpful. Sites like YouTube have endless free tutorials.

Maintenance for Your Wooden TV Stand

Once your beautiful TV stand is built and finished, a little care will keep it looking great for years.

Dust Regularly: Use a soft, dry cloth or a microfiber duster to remove dust.
Wipe Up Spills Immediately: Liquids can damage wood finishes. Blot spills gently with a soft cloth.
Use Coasters: Protect the surface from condensation from drinks.
Avoid Harsh Cleaners: Stick to mild soap and water or specialized wood cleaners. Avoid abrasive pads.
Check Hardware: Periodically check that hinges and drawer slides are functioning smoothly and that knobs/pulls are secure.

For routine cleaning, a damp cloth followed by a dry cloth is usually sufficient. For deeper cleaning, a wood