Quick Summary
Learn how to make wooden step planters effortlessly with this beginner-friendly guide. We’ll show you how to build a beautiful, tiered planter for your garden using simple tools and common lumber, transforming your outdoor space with style and functionality.
So, you’ve got a great spot in your yard that’s just begging for some color, but you’re not sure how to add some vertical interest? Maybe you have a few plants that could use a little elevation, or you’re just drawn to the charm of a tiered planter. Building your own wooden step planter is a fantastic DIY project that adds a lot of bang for your buck. It’s simpler than you might think, and the satisfaction of growing your own flowers or herbs in something you built yourself is unbeatable. Let’s get those hands dirty and build something beautiful!
Table of Contents
Why Build a Wooden Step Planter?
Wooden step planters are more than just a pretty face for your garden. They offer a practical solution to several common landscaping challenges. Their tiered design allows you to maximize planting space in a smaller footprint, making them perfect for patios, porches, or even small backyards. You can arrange plants of varying heights and sizes, creating a visually dynamic display that draws the eye. Plus, building it yourself means you can customize the size, style, and wood type to perfectly match your existing decor and needs.
Selecting Your Materials: The Foundation of Your Planter
Choosing the right wood is key to a planter that lasts and looks great. For outdoor projects, you want wood that can stand up to moisture, sunlight, and temperature changes.
Here are some top choices:
Cedar: This is a very popular choice for outdoor projects. Cedar is naturally resistant to rot and insects, meaning your planter will last a long time without needing harsh chemical treatments. It has a beautiful natural color and scent, and it’s relatively lightweight and easy to work with.
Redwood: Similar to cedar, redwood is also incredibly durable and resistant to decay. It has a gorgeous reddish-brown hue that ages beautifully. However, redwood can be more expensive than cedar.
Pressure-Treated Lumber: This lumber has been chemically treated to resist rot and insects. It’s a budget-friendly option and widely available. Look for lumber treated for ground contact if you plan on placing the planter directly on the soil. Be sure to check the EPA’s guidelines for using pressure-treated wood, especially if you plan to grow edible plants. You might consider a liner to create a barrier.
Cypress: Another excellent choice for outdoor use, cypress boasts natural resistance to decay and insects. It can be a bit harder to find depending on your location but is a solid, long-lasting material.
Hardware:
For any outdoor wood project, it’s essential to use corrosion-resistant fasteners. This means galvanized, stainless steel, or coated screws. These will prevent rust streaks and ensure your planter holds together through all kinds of weather.
Tools You’ll Need: Your DIY Toolkit
Don’t worry if you don’t have a professional workshop! For a basic wooden step planter, you can get by with a few essential tools. Having the right tools makes the job easier, safer, and results in a much better-looking finished product.
Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll likely need:
Measuring Tape: Accuracy is important for cutting your wood to the correct lengths.
Pencil: For marking your cuts.
Saw: A miter saw or circular saw will make straight, clean cuts. If you’re just starting, a handsaw will work, but it will take more effort and might not be as precise. Safety first with any saw!
Drill/Driver: Essential for pre-drilling holes (to prevent wood splitting) and driving screws. Cordless drills are super convenient.
Drill Bits: A variety of sizes, including one for pilot holes and a slightly larger one for creating drainage holes in the bottom of the planter boxes.
Screwdriver Bits: To match your screws.
Sandpaper or Electric Sander: For smoothing rough edges and surfaces. Start with a medium grit (around 80-120) and finish with a finer grit (180-220) for a smooth feel.
Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes when cutting or drilling wood.
Work Gloves: To protect your hands.
Clamps: These are incredibly helpful for holding pieces of wood together while you screw them. They make assembly much easier and more accurate.
Designing Your Wooden Step Planter: Planning for Success
Before you cut a single piece of wood, a little planning goes a long way. The most common step planter design features tiers that are progressively smaller, allowing each layer to be visible. Think about the dimensions that will best fit your space and the types of plants you want to grow.
A fantastic beginner-friendly design involves building three separate box-style planters that can be stacked or nested together.
Example Design: A Simple Three-Tiered Planter
Let’s envision a design where you build three box planters that get smaller as they go up. This creates a classic tiered look.
Bottom Planter: The largest box.
Middle Planter: Smaller than the bottom, designed to fit on top.
Top Planter: The smallest box for the very top.
Key Design Considerations:
Dimensions: Decide on the length, width, and height for each tier. Consider the space you have and the mature size of your plants. A good starting point might be:
Bottom: 36 inches long x 15 inches wide x 12 inches high
Middle: 30 inches long x 12 inches wide x 10 inches high
Top: 24 inches long x 9 inches wide x 8 inches high
Depth: Ensure each planter is deep enough for your chosen plants’ root systems. Most flowering plants and herbs need at least 6-8 inches of soil depth.
Drainage: This is CRUCIAL for any planter. Without proper drainage, plants can develop root rot. We’ll cover how to add drainage holes later.
Stacking/Nesting: Plan how the tiers will sit on each other. For stability, the middle planter should ideally recess slightly into the bottom one, and the top into the middle. This can be achieved by making the inner dimensions smaller than the outer ones of the tier below.
Cutting Your Lumber: Precision Matters
Once you have your design and materials assembled, it’s time to start cutting. Measure twice, cut once is a golden rule in woodworking!
Let’s use our example dimensions for a three-tiered planter (assuming all are the same depth for simplicity in this guide, but you can vary this). We’ll build simple rectangular boxes where the front and back pieces are longer than the sides.
For each box, you’ll need:
2 Long pieces (front/back)
2 Short pieces (sides)
For the bottom of each box, you can use 1×6 or 1×8 boards cut to fit, or a piece of exterior-grade plywood.
Example Cuts for ONE Box (adjust for your desired dimensions and number of tiers):
Let’s build the middle planter example (30″ long x 12″ wide x 10″ high) to illustrate. We’ll use 1×6 lumber for the sides, which is actually about 5.5 inches wide. This will give us a height of roughly 11 inches when assembled with a bottom.
For the 30″ length (front and back): Cut two pieces of wood to 30 inches.
For the 12″ width (sides): If your wood is 3/4 inch thick, and you want the outside width to be 12 inches, you’ll need to account for the thickness of the front and back pieces. So, cut two side pieces to 12 inches – (2 x 3/4 inch thickness) = 10.5 inches.
For the Bottom: Cut a piece of wood (or plywood) to fit the inside dimensions of the box. If the inside dimensions are 30 inches long minus the thickness of the two side pieces (2 x 3/4 = 1.5 inches), so 28.5 inches total length. And the width is 10.5 inches. So, cut a bottom piece to 28.5″ x 10.5″. Alternatively, and often easier for beginners, you can attach the bottom boards to the outside of the assembled box walls.
Repeat this process for all three tiers, adjusting the lengths and widths accordingly.
Safety Tip: Always ensure your wood is securely clamped or supported when cutting. Keep your fingers well away from the blade path. If you’re using a circular saw, consider using a guide for straighter cuts.
Assembling Your Planter Boxes: Bringing It All Together
Now for the fun part – assembling your planter boxes! We’ll use screws for a strong, durable build. Pre-drilling pilot holes is your best friend here; it prevents the wood from splitting, especially near the ends of boards.
Let’s assemble one box:
1. Prepare Your Pieces: Lay out the front, back, and side pieces for one planter box.
2. Attach the Sides to the Front: Place one of the long “front” pieces flat. Stand one of the shorter “side” pieces on its end, flush with the end of the front piece. The edge of the side piece should butt up against the face of the front piece.
3. Pre-drill and Screw: Using a drill bit slightly smaller than your screw diameter, drill two pilot holes through the front piece and into the end grain of the side piece. Drive in your corrosion-resistant screws to secure the pieces.
4. Attach the Other Side: Repeat step 3 for the other side piece. You should now have a U-shape.
5. Attach the Back: Now, position the “back” piece. It will butt up against the ends of the two side pieces. Pre-drill and screw through the back piece into the ends of the side pieces.
6. Add the Bottom: Now determine how you want to attach the bottom.
Option A (Inside): If you cut your bottom to fit the inside dimensions, place it inside the assembled box and pre-drill and screw through the box walls into the edges of the bottom piece.
Option B (Underneath): This is often easier. Place the box walls upside down. Lay the bottom piece across the opening. Pre-drill and drive screws through the bottom piece into the edges of the front, back, and side walls.
7. Repeat for All Tiers: Assemble the remaining two planter boxes following the same steps.
Pro-Tip for Drainage: Before you add the bottom, or right after assembling the walls, it’s a good time to drill drainage holes. If attaching the bottom last, drill several 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch holes through the bottom piece. If you’re attaching it first and want to drill through the base, do so now. Aim for at least 4-6 holes per planter, spaced out. If using plywood for the bottom, ensure it’s exterior-grade.
| Fastener Type | Why Use It | Considerations |
|---|---|---|
| Galvanized Screws | Good corrosion resistance, commonly available. | Can sometimes leave faint streaks over time. |
| Stainless Steel Screws | Excellent corrosion resistance, looks great. | Can be more expensive. |
| Coated Exterior Screws | Specifically designed for outdoor use, good holding power, often come with specialized tips for easier driving. | Ensure the coating is rated for exterior wood applications. |
Finishing and Protecting Your Wooden Planter
Once your boxes are assembled, you’ll want to smooth out any rough edges or splinters. A quick sanding will make your planter much nicer to handle and look more polished.
Sandpaper: Use medium-grit sandpaper (around 80-120) to knock down any high spots or rough cuts. Follow up with a finer grit (180-220) for a smooth finish. Pay attention to edges and corners.
Optional: Sealant or Stain: While naturally resistant woods like cedar and redwood will last a long time unprotected, applying a sealant can extend their life even further and maintain their color.
Wood Sealant: A clear, water-repellent sealant will protect against moisture and UV damage.
Exterior Stain: This can add color and protection. Opt for a non-toxic, plant-safe stain if you’re concerned about chemicals leaching into the soil, especially for edible plants. You can find plant-safe garden bed finishes that work well for planters too.
Lining (Recommended for Pressure-Treated Wood): If you used pressure-treated lumber or want extra protection, consider lining your planters. Heavy-duty plastic sheeting, landscape fabric, or specialized planter liners can create a barrier between the soil and the wood. Ensure you poke holes through the liner corresponding to the planter’s drainage holes.
Allow any finish to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions before adding soil.
Stacking and Arranging Your Tiers
Now for the satisfying part: putting it all together!
1. Placement: Decide where you want your step planter to live. Choose a spot that receives adequate sunlight for the plants you intend to grow.
2. Stability: For the most stable setup, the middle planter should sit slightly inside the edges of the bottom planter, and the top planter should sit slightly inside the edges of the middle one. You can achieve this by making your dimensions slightly smaller for each progressive tier.
If the outside dimensions of your bottom planter are 36″x15″, aim for the outside dimensions of your middle planter to be a bit less, say 30″x12″. And the top planter 24″x9″. This natural recess provides stability.
3. Securing (Optional but Recommended): For added stability, especially on uneven ground or if you have pets or children, you might want to secure the tiers together.
You can use L-brackets on the inside where the tiers meet.
Longer screws could be driven down through the bottom of the upper tier into the top edge of the lower tier (ensure screws aren’t too long!).
Stakes driven into the ground and attached to the bottom planter can also help.
Planting Your Step Planter: Bringing It to Life!
With your beautiful wooden step planter built and ready, it’s time to add the soil and plants.
1. Soil Mix: Use a high-quality potting mix. You can mix in some compost for added nutrients. Avoid using heavy garden soil, as it can compact too much in a planter. Check out Oregon State University Extension’s guide on potting mixes for great insights.
2. Layering: Partially fill each planter with your soil mix.
3. Planting: Arrange your plants, considering their mature size and sunlight needs. Taller plants often look best at the back of the bottom tier, or on the top tier. Trailing plants can cascade down the sides.
4. Fill and Water: Add more soil around the plants, leaving about an inch of space at the top for watering. Water thoroughly after planting.
Step-by-Step Recap: Your Building Checklist
Let’s quickly review the steps to make your wooden step planter:
- Plan Your Design: Decide on size, dimensions, and style.
- Gather Materials: Purchase your chosen lumber and corrosion-resistant screws.
- Measure and Cut: Accurately cut all the pieces for each tier.
- Assemble Each Box: Pre-drill holes and screw the sides, front, back, and bottom together for each tier.
- Add Drainage: Drill several holes in the bottom of each planter box.
- Sand Smooth: Remove any rough edges or splinters.
- Apply Finish (Optional): Seal or stain your planter for added protection.
- Arrange Tiers: Stack or nest the planter boxes for stability.
- Plant Away: Fill with soil and add your favorite flowers, herbs, or small vegetables!
Maintenance Tips for Your Wooden Planter
To keep your handiwork looking great for years to come:
Water Wisely: Avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot and wood decay. Ensure drainage holes are clear.
Check Fasteners: Periodically inspect screws and brackets to ensure they are secure.
Clear Debris: Remove fallen leaves or debris from the planter surfaces and around the base to prevent moisture build-up.
* Reapply Finish: If you used a sealant or stain, you may need to reapply it every year or two, depending on your climate and the product used.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: What type of wood is best for outdoor planters?
A1: Cedar, redwood, cypress, and pressure-