Build a stylish wooden floating nightstand drawer with simple steps. This beginner-friendly guide uses basic tools and provides a clear, actionable plan to add a sleek, space-saving storage solution to your bedroom. Get ready for a rewarding DIY project!
Ever look at your bedside and think, “I could really use a bit more storage, but I don’t want a bulky nightstand?” Floating nightstand drawers are a fantastic solution! They give you that much-needed spot for your book, phone, or a cup of tea, all while looking super modern and keeping your floor clear. It’s a common DIY dream, and I’m here to show you how achievable it is, even if you’re just starting out. Forget the frustration of limited space or complicated designs; we’re going to build this drawer step-by-step. Ready to transform your bedroom? Let’s get started!
You might be wondering, is a floating nightstand drawer really that different from a regular drawer? Well, the big difference is how it’s mounted. Instead of sitting on legs or a base, it attaches directly to the wall, creating that “floating” effect. This not only looks sleek and minimalist, but it’s also a brilliant space-saver, especially in smaller rooms. Plus, cleaning underneath is a breeze! We’ll break down the entire process, from choosing your wood to the final coat of finish, making sure you have all the information you need to succeed.
Table of Contents
Why Build a Wooden Floating Nightstand Drawer?
There are some great reasons to tackle this project. For starters, it’s a fantastic way to personalize your space. You get to choose the wood, the finish, and the exact size to fit your needs perfectly. Plus, the floating design itself has some serious advantages.
- Space Saving: This is the king of benefits! By mounting it to the wall, you free up floor space, making your room feel larger and less cluttered. It’s perfect for small apartments or any cozy bedroom.
- Modern Aesthetics: The clean lines and minimalist design of a floating nightstand drawer bring a contemporary, stylish vibe to any bedroom decor.
- Customization: You control every aspect – the dimensions, the type of wood, the hardware, and the finish. Make it truly yours!
- Easy Cleaning: No legs to dust around! Cleaning the floor beneath your floating drawer is super quick and easy.
- Affordability: Building it yourself is almost always more budget-friendly than buying a similar piece of furniture.
Essential Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Don’t worry, you don’t need a fully-loaded professional workshop for this. We’ll focus on the essentials that will get the job done safely and effectively. Having the right tools makes all the difference, turning a potential headache into a smooth experience.
Tools for the Job:
- Measuring Tape: Precision is key for cutting and assembly.
- Pencil: For marking your cuts and assembly points.
- Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes when working with tools. This is non-negotiable!
- Work Gloves: To protect your hands.
- Sanding Block or Orbital Sander: For smoothing down the wood. An orbital sander will speed things up significantly.
- Drill/Driver: For pre-drilling holes and driving screws. A cordless one is super convenient.
- Clamps: Essential for holding pieces together while glue dries or while you’re fastening. Bar clamps or pipe clamps are great for this.
- Circular Saw or Miter Saw: For making straight, accurate cuts in your wood. A miter saw is ideal for precise crosscuts, but a circular saw can definitely do the job.
- Jigsaw (Optional): If you want to cut any curves or intricate shapes.
- Level: Crucial for ensuring your drawer is mounted straight on the wall.
- Stud Finder: To locate wall studs for secure mounting.
- Optional: Router: For creating decorative edges or dadoes for drawer bottoms.
Materials You’ll Need:
The type of wood you choose will affect the look and cost of your nightstand. For beginners, plywood or common hardwoods like pine are great choices as they are forgiving and readily available.
- Wood for the Drawer Box: For a standard size drawer (approx. 18″ long x 12″ deep x 6″ high), you might use:
- 1x (or equivalent size) board for the sides (pine, poplar, or even plywood)
- A piece of 1/4″ or 1/2″ plywood for the drawer bottom.
- Wood for the Drawer Front (Face Frame): This is the visible part. You can use a slightly nicer wood here like oak or maple, or a complementary piece of pine.
- Wood Glue: A good quality wood glue is essential for strong joints. Titebond II or III are excellent choices.
- Screws: Wood screws of appropriate lengths (e.g., 1 1/4″ and 2 1/2″ for box construction and mounting).
- Drawer Slides: These allow the drawer to open and close smoothly. For a beginner-friendly build, simple ball-bearing slides are a good choice. You can get these at any hardware store.
- Mounting Bracket or Cleat: This could be a french cleat system or heavy-duty L-brackets.
- Sandpaper: Various grits (e.g., 80, 120, 180, 220) for smoothing.
- Wood Finish: Stain, paint, polyurethane, or oil – your choice!
- Rags or Brushes: For applying your finish.
Planning & Design: Dimensions and Cuts
Before you pick up a saw, it’s all about planning. The dimensions will depend on your space and what you want to store. For this guide, let’s assume we’re building a common size. We’ll aim for an exterior dimension of roughly 18 inches wide, 12 inches deep, and 6 inches high. Remember, these are exterior dimensions; interior dimensions will be smaller due to the thickness of the wood.
It’s also crucial to consider how the drawer will fit into its housing and how it will be mounted. For a floating nightstand, the simplest and most secure method is often a French cleat system. This involves attaching one cleat to the wall and a corresponding one to the back of your nightstand drawer carcass, allowing them to interlock securely. This distributes the weight effectively. You can find great guides on building and installing French cleats on This Old House; they’re a woodworking staple!
Cutting List Example (for a 3/4″ thick material):
This list is based on building a simple box construction. Adjust based on the actual thickness of your chosen material.
| Part | Material | Dimensions (Width x Length x Thickness) | Quantity | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Drawer Sides (2) | 3/4″ Plywood or Pine | 5 1/4″ x 17 1/4″ | 2 | These will be the long sides. |
| Drawer Front/Back (2) | 3/4″ Plywood or Pine | 5 1/4″ x 10 1/2″ | 2 | These will fit between the sides to form the box. |
| Drawer Bottom | 1/4″ Plywood | 17″ x 11 1/2″ | 1 | This will slide into grooves or be attached to the bottom. |
| Drawer Face (Optional Face Frame) | 1/2″ or 3/4″ Hardwood/Plywood | 6″ x 18″ | 1 | This covers the front edge for a finished look. |
| French Cleat (Wall Mount) | 3/4″ Plywood or Hardwood | 3″ x 18″ | 1 | Cut at a 45-degree angle along the length. |
| French Cleat (Drawer Mount) | 3/4″ Plywood or Hardwood | 3″ x 17 1/4″ | 1 | Cut at a 45-degree angle along the length. |
Important Note on Drawer Bottom: If you’re using a 1/4″ plywood bottom, you can cut grooves (dadoes) into the drawer sides and front/back pieces to slip the bottom into. This makes for a much stronger drawer. If you don’t have a router or the tools for dadoes, you can simply attach the bottom flush to the underside of the assembled box using glue and small screws or brad nails. For this guide, we’ll assume the dado method for a robust build.
Step-by-Step Guide: Building Your Floating Nightstand Drawer
Let’s get building! We’ll focus on creating a solid drawer box and then the mounting system.
Step 1: Prepare Your Wood and Cut List
Double-check all your measurements. Measure twice, cut once! Ensure your lumber is straight and free of major flaws. If you’re new to cutting, take your time and make sure your cuts are square (90 degrees).
Step 2: Cut and Prepare Drawer Box Parts
Using your circular saw or miter saw, carefully cut all the pieces according to your cutting list. For the drawer box, you’ll have two longer sides and two shorter front/back pieces. Remember that the front/back pieces will fit between the side pieces.
Creating Dadoes for the Drawer Bottom: If you’re using a router to create dadoes (grooves) for the drawer bottom, set your router bit to the depth of your drawer bottom material (e.g., 1/4″) and cut a groove along the inside face of the two side pieces and the inside face of the front and back pieces. The groove should be positioned so that when the drawer is assembled, it sits about 1/2″ to 3/4″ up from the bottom edge of the side and front/back pieces. Make the groove wide enough for your 1/4″ plywood to slide in easily.
If you’re not using a router, you can skip this step and attach the bottom later.
Step 3: Assemble the Drawer Box
Apply a generous amount of wood glue to the edges of the front and back pieces where they will join the side pieces. Clamp the pieces together. For added strength, pre-drill and then drive screws through the side pieces into the ends of the front and back pieces.
If you cut dadoes: Carefully slide the 1/4″ plywood drawer bottom into the dadoes before fully assembling. Once it’s in place, apply glue to the joining edges, clamp, and screw.
If you did NOT cut dadoes: Assemble the four sides first with glue and screws. Once the box is assembled and the glue is starting to set, apply glue to the bottom edges and place the 1/4″ plywood bottom piece. Secure it with small screws or by shooting in brad nails around the perimeter. Ensure the bottom is flush and square.
Use a square to ensure your box is perfectly square before the glue dries. Wipe away any excess glue with a damp cloth.
Step 4: Sand and Prepare for Finishing
Once the glue is completely dry, it’s time to sand. Start with a coarser grit (like 80 or 120) to smooth out any rough edges or imperfections. Then, move to finer grits (180 and 220) for a silky-smooth finish. Pay close attention to the edges and corners.
For the optional face frame: If you’re adding a separate piece to act as the drawer front for a more finished look, cut it to size. You can attach this by applying glue to the front edge of the drawer box and clamping the face frame onto it. Once dry, you can sand it flush. Often, the face frame is attached with pocket hole joinery for a cleaner look, but a simple glue-up can work for beginners.
Step 5: Apply Wood Finish
This is where your drawer comes to life! Apply your chosen stain or paint according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re staining, a pre-stain wood conditioner can help ensure an even color, especially on softer woods like pine. After the stain or paint is dry, apply several coats of a protective finish like polyurethane or varnish. Lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper between coats for a super smooth finish. Let it cure fully.
Step 6: Install Drawer Slides
This step requires precision. Drawer slides typically come in two parts: one for the cabinet (or in our case, the wall mounting structure) and one for the drawer itself. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully for your specific slides. Generally, you’ll mount one part of the slide to the side of your drawer box and the corresponding part to the wall (or mounting cleat). Ensure they are level and parallel to each other.
Tip: Many slides have a “lip” or guide. Make sure this is oriented correctly. Measure and mark precisely where the slides will go before pre-drilling.
Step 7: Prepare and Mount the Wall Cleat
Take your French cleat piece (the longer one). You’ll want to cut the 45-degree bevel along its length. Make sure the bevel is angled so that when one cleat is on the wall and the other is on the drawer, they lock together. The bevel should point upwards on the wall cleat. Pre-drill mounting holes through the cleat. For a sturdy installation, you’ll want to screw this directly into wall studs. Use your stud finder to locate them.
Hold the cleat against the wall at your desired height, use a level to make sure it’s perfectly horizontal, mark your stud locations, and then screw the cleat securely into the studs. Family Handyman has great visuals on this process that are super helpful for understanding the angles and placement.
Important: The strength of your floating nightstand drawer relies on this secure wall mounting. Don’t just screw into drywall!
Step 8: Prepare and Mount the Drawer Cleat
Take the corresponding cleat piece for your drawer. Cut the 45-degree bevel along its length, ensuring the bevel angle is the opposite of the wall cleat (pointing downwards). Attach this cleat to the back of your completed drawer box, making sure it’s flush with the top and perfectly square. You can attach it with glue and screws, or use pocket holes from the inside of the drawer box for a cleaner look on the back.
Step 9: Hang Your Floating Nightstand Drawer
With the wall cleat securely mounted and the drawer cleat attached to your drawer box, it’s time for the moment of truth! Simply lift your drawer and hook the cleat on the back of the drawer onto the cleat on the wall. It should slide down and lock securely into place. Give it a gentle tug to ensure it’s stable.
Step 10: Install Drawer Front (if not already integrated) and Hardware
If you didn’t integrate your drawer front into the box assembly, now is the time to attach it. You can use glue, screws from the inside of the box, or pocket holes. For a cleaner finish, consider attaching it with screws from the inside of the drawer box and filling/sanding the screw holes on the inside.
If you’re adding a handle or knob, measure carefully for placement. You can drill holes through the drawer front and install your hardware.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with the best plans, sometimes things don’t go perfectly. Here are a couple of common snags and how to fix them:
| Problem | Possible Causes | Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| Drawer doesn’t slide smoothly. | Drawer slides aren’t level or parallel. Obstruction in the slide tracks (sawdust, debris). Drawer box is out of square. |
Re-align and re-mount drawer |