DIY Wooden Monitor Stand with Drawer: Genius Design

Build a DIY wooden monitor stand with a drawer for smarter desk organization. This project balances style and function, elevating your screen while providing hidden storage. It’s surprisingly achievable for beginners, offering a fantastic way to declutter your workspace and add a touch of custom craftsmanship.

Tired of a messy desk? Does your monitor sit a little too low, making your neck ache? You’re not alone! A cluttered workspace can really drag down your focus and productivity. But what if you could build something that solves both problems? Imagine a stylish, sturdy wooden monitor stand that not only raises your screen to a more comfortable height but also hides away those little odds and ends in a handy drawer. Sounds great, right? Well, you can! We’ll walk through this project step-by-step, making it easy for anyone to build. Get ready to transform your desk from chaos to calm.

—

Table of Contents

Why Build Your Own Monitor Stand with a Drawer?

Let’s be honest, buying an off-the-shelf monitor stand can be pricey. And often, they don’t have exactly the features we want. Building your own lets you customize the size, style, and even the type of wood to perfectly match your existing desk and decor. Plus, the satisfaction of creating something useful with your own hands is incredibly rewarding!

Benefits at a Glance:

Ergonomics: Raise your monitor to eye level, which can reduce neck and back strain.
Desk Organization: The drawer is perfect for stashing pens, notepads, charging cables, or other small items.
Aesthetics: Create a piece that complements your personal style and workspace.
Cost-Effective: Often cheaper than buying a comparable pre-made stand.
Skill Building: A fantastic project for beginners to learn fundamental woodworking techniques.

—

Essential Tools and Materials: Your Project Checklist

Don’t let a long list scare you! Most of these are standard woodworking tools. If you don’t have something, consider borrowing from a friend or looking for a good starter tool deal. Safety first, always! Make sure you understand how to use each tool before you start.

Tools You’ll Need:

Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements.
Pencil: To mark your cuts.
Safety Glasses: Absolutely non-negotiable for protecting your eyes.
Hearing Protection: Especially important when using power saws.
Dust Mask: To protect your lungs from sawdust.
Circular Saw or Miter Saw: For making clean, straight cuts. A miter saw is great for repeatable angles if you choose to add any decorative bevels. For a basic build, a circular saw guided by a straight edge works wonderfully.
Jigsaw (Optional): Useful for cutting curves or notches if your design requires them.
Drill/Driver: For pre-drilling holes and driving screws.
Drill Bits: Various sizes for pilot holes and screw heads.
Sander (Orbital or Block): To smooth out all the wood surfaces. Start with a coarser grit (like 80 or 120) and finish with a finer grit (like 180 or 220).
Clamps: Essential for holding pieces together while glue dries or while you’re fastening.
Wood Glue: A strong adhesive to reinforce your joints.
Screws: Wood screws are ideal. Choose a length appropriate for your wood thickness.
Wood Filler (Optional): To fill any screw holes or imperfections.
Finishing Supplies: Sandpaper (various grits), wood stain or paint, and a clear protective topcoat (polyurethane, lacquer, or wax).

Materials You’ll Need:

The type of wood you choose will impact the look and cost. Pine is a budget-friendly and easy-to-work-with option for beginners. Hardwoods like oak or maple offer a more premium look and durability but are harder to cut and more expensive. For this project, let’s assume you’re using standard 1x dimensional lumber (which is actually ¾ inch thick).

Wood for the Main Structure: We’ll need pieces for the top, sides, bottom, and back. You can use plywood for some parts for stability and cost savings, or solid wood for a more traditional feel.
Example dimensions for a mid-sized monitor stand (adjust based on your monitor and desk):
Top Panel: 1 piece, 18 inches long x 8 inches wide
Side Panels: 2 pieces, 7.25 inches long x 7.25 inches wide (height determined by your desired monitor elevation)
Bottom Panel: 1 piece, approximately 16.5 inches long x 7.25 inches wide (width will depend on how the sides attach)
Back Panel (optional, for added stability and to prevent items from falling out the back): 1 piece, 18 inches long x 7.25 inches high
Wood for the Drawer:
Drawer Front: 1 piece, 16 inches wide x 3 inches high (should be slightly wider than the opening)
Drawer Sides: 2 pieces, 5 inches long x 3 inches high
Drawer Back: 1 piece, 14.5 inches wide x 3 inches high (width depends on side attachment)
Drawer Bottom: 1 piece, 14.5 inches long x 4.5 inches wide (this fits inside the drawer sides and back, sits on runners or the bottom panel)
Drawer Slides (Optional but Recommended): A pair of small drawer slides will make your drawer glide smoothly. Look for 10-inch or 12-inch lightweight slides.
Wood Screws: 1 ¼ inch and ¾ inch wood screws are usually sufficient.
Wood Glue: A good quality PVA wood glue.
Sandpaper: Grits 80, 120, 180, 220.
Finishing Supplies: Stain/paint, polyurethane.

—

Planning Your Design: Measure Twice, Cut Once!

Before you even pick up a saw, let’s get our measurements dialed in. The goal of a monitor stand is to bring your screen up to a comfortable viewing level. A common recommendation is to have the top of your monitor screen at or slightly below eye level when you’re sitting upright.

Determining Dimensions:

1. Height of the Stand:
Measure the height of your monitor from the desk surface to where you want the bottom of your screen to be.
Add a couple of inches for clearance. Let’s aim for a total external stand height of about 6 inches. This means your side panels will be roughly 6 inches tall.
2. Width of the Stand:
Measure the width of your monitor’s base or the space you want it to occupy.
Add a few inches for a buffer on each side, especially if you plan to place speakers or other items on the stand. A width of 18-20 inches is common.
3. Depth of the Stand:
Consider the depth of your monitor and any items you might place on it. A standard desk depth can accommodate a 7-9 inch deep stand comfortably.
4. Drawer Size:
The drawer dimensions will fit within the main structure. You’ll want the drawer front to be slightly wider than the space it sits in, and its height should be manageable. The internal depth of the drawer needs to accommodate items like pens and a small notepad.

Consider how you want the drawer to be integrated. Will it slide into a pre-built cavity, or will it be a separate box that slides into the stand? For simplicity, we’ll design a stand where the drawer slides into an open space.

Sketching Your Design:

Grab a piece of paper and sketch out your stand. Label each piece with its dimensions. This visual guide is invaluable when you start cutting.

Think about how the pieces will join. Will the sides attach to the ends of the top and bottom panels, or will the top and bottom panels sit on top of the sides? For a sturdy build, we’ll have the sides sit between the top and bottom panels. The drawer will then slide into the space created between the bottom panel and the desk surface.

—

Step-by-Step Build Guide: Crafting Your Monitor Stand

Let’s get building! Remember to always wear your safety gear.

Step 1: Cutting Your Wood Pieces

Accuracy here makes everything else easier. Double-check your measurements before each cut.

Cut the Main Structure Pieces:
1 x Top Panel: 18″ x 8″
2 x Side Panels: 6″ x 7.25″ (adjust height as needed)
1 x Bottom Panel: 16.5″ x 7.25″ (this fits between the sides, so its width is the top panel width minus twice the thickness of your side panels: 18″ – (2 x ¾”) = 16.5″)
1 x Back Panel (optional): 18″ x 6″ (height matches side panels)
Cut the Drawer Pieces:
Drawer Front: 7″ wide x 3″ high (make this slightly wider than the drawer opening you’ll create in the stand). Let’s assume your drawer opening will be about 6.5 inches wide.
Drawer Sides: 2 pieces, 5″ long x 3″ high
Drawer Back: 1 piece, 5″ long x 3″ high (this will be the same width as the drawer sides if they join tongue-and-groove style, or slightly less if they butt together). Let’s make it 5″ wide.
Drawer Bottom: 1 piece, 5″ long x 4.5″ wide (this fits inside the sides and back).

Tip: If you’re new to cutting, practice on scrap wood first. Get a feel for your saw and how to make controlled cuts. Read up on how to use a circular saw safely, for example, on resources like those from OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration).

Step 2: Assembling the Main Stand Structure

We’re using a simple butt joint reinforced with glue and screws for this build.

1. Attach Sides to Bottom Panel:
Apply wood glue to the bottom edge of one Side Panel.
Align it with the edge of the Bottom Panel, ensuring the edges are flush.
Clamp them together.
Pre-drill two pilot holes through the Bottom Panel into the Side Panel.
Drive ¾ inch wood screws to secure it.
Repeat for the other Side Panel on the opposite edge of the Bottom Panel. You should now have a U-shape.
2. Attach Top Panel:
Apply glue to the top edges of both Side Panels.
Carefully position the Top Panel onto the Side Panels, ensuring all edges are flush.
Clamp the assembly.
Pre-drill pilot holes down through the Top Panel into the Side Panels (two per side).
Drive 1 ¼ inch wood screws. This forms the main box of your stand.
3. Install the Back Panel (Optional):
If you’re adding a back panel, apply glue to the back edges of the Side Panels and the Top/Bottom Panels.
Align the Back Panel flush with the back edges.
Clamp and secure with ¾ inch wood screws, pre-drilling pilot holes.

Ensure everything is square as you assemble. Use a carpenter’s square to check your joints. It makes a big difference in the final look.

Step 3: Building the Drawer Box

This is like making a smaller version of the main stand.

1. Attach Drawer Sides to Drawer Back:
Apply glue to the side edges of the Drawer Back piece.
Align the edges of the Drawer Sides with the Drawer Back.
Clamp and secure with ¾ inch wood screws, pre-drilling pilot holes.
2. Attach Drawer Front:
Apply glue to the front edges of the Drawer Sides and the Drawer Back.
Align the Drawer Front piece. Ensure it’s flush with the sides.
Clamp and secure with ¾ inch wood screws.
3. Insert Drawer Bottom:
Slide the Drawer Bottom piece into the grooves you’ve created (if you cut grooves) or simply place it flush against the inside of the Drawer Back and Sides.
Apply glue to the bottom edges of the Drawer Sides and Back.
Press the Drawer Bottom into the glue.
Secure by driving small screws (½ inch) up through the Bottom panel into the sides and back, or by nailing from the outside. For a cleaner look, you could also slide the bottom into grooves cut into the sides and front/back, and then attach the bottom piece last.

For drawer slides, attach one part to the outside of the drawer box sides and the mating part inside the stand opening according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This involves precise measurements and alignment.

Step 4: Sanding and Finishing

This step elevates your project from a DIY build to a finished piece of furniture.

1. Sanding:
Start with 80 or 120 grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough spots, mill marks, or glue squeeze-out.
Progress to 180 grit for a smoother feel.
Finish with 220 grit for a silky-smooth surface that’s ready for finishing.
Sand all edges and corners lightly to remove any sharpness.
If you have screw holes that you want to hide, fill them with wood filler. Let it dry completely, then sand smooth.
2. Cleaning:
Wipe down all surfaces with a tack cloth or a slightly damp rag to remove all dust. Dust is the enemy of a good finish!
3. Finishing:
Staining (Optional): Apply wood stain in your desired color according to the product instructions. Wipe off excess stain with a clean rag. Let it dry completely.
Paining (Optional): Apply a primer, then your chosen paint color. You might need multiple thin coats for even coverage.
Topcoat: Apply a clear protective finish like polyurethane. Many people prefer a water-based polyurethane for durability and low odor. Apply 2-3 thin coats, allowing each coat to dry and lightly sanding with 220 grit (or finer) sandpaper between coats for a super smooth finish.

Always finish in a well-ventilated area and follow the drying times recommended on your finish products. For great tips on finishing, check out resources from wood finishing experts.

Step 5: Final Assembly and Drawer Installation

Almost there!

1. Install Drawer Slides (If Used):
Carefully attach the drawer slides to the inside of the stand structure and to the sides of the drawer box. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for precise placement. This is crucial for a smooth-gliding drawer.
2. Insert the Drawer:
Gently slide the assembled drawer into the designated space in your monitor stand. If you used drawer slides, they should engage and allow for smooth operation.
3. Attach Drawer Front:
If you didn’t attach the drawer front during the drawer box assembly (e.g., you’re using it to cover the opening of the stand), align it carefully.
From inside the drawer box, pre-drill pilot holes through the drawer sides into the back of the drawer front.
Secure with ¾ inch wood screws.

Give your creation a final check. Make sure everything is stable, the drawer opens and closes smoothly, and you’re happy with the look!

—

Table: Wood Properties at a Glance

Choosing the right wood can make a big difference in your project’s final appearance and your building experience. Here’s a quick look at some popular choices for this type of project.

—

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Got lingering questions? Here are some common ones answered for beginners.

Q1: Can I build this without a power saw?
A1: Yes! You can use a handsaw and miter box for straight cuts. It will take more time and effort, but it’s definitely doable. Patience is key!
Q2: How do I make sure my drawer isn’t wobbly?
A2: Ensure your drawer box is assembled squarely. Using drawer slides will provide the most stability and smooth operation. If not using slides, make