Build your own sturdy DIY wood nightstand with drawers using this essential woodworking plan. This beginner-friendly guide provides clear steps, tool lists, and expert tips to help you create a functional and attractive piece of furniture with confidence.
Hey, DIYers! Does your bedroom feel a little… unfinished? Maybe you’ve got that perfect spot next to your bed, but it’s bare. A nightstand is more than just furniture; it’s a trusty sidekick for your lamp, book, phone, and that cup of water you always need. But buying one can be surprisingly pricey, and finding one that’s just right can be a real hunt. If you dream of adding a custom touch to your space without breaking the bank or getting lost in complicated instructions, you’ve come to the right place. I’m Jack Shaffer, and I’m here to walk you through building a fantastic DIY wood nightstand with drawers. We’ll break down everything you need to know, from gathering your materials to the final polish. Get ready to build something you’ll be proud of!
Table of Contents
Why Build Your Own Nightstand?
There are tons of reasons a DIY nightstand project is a winner. For starters, you get exactly what you want. You can pick the wood, choose the stain, and decide on hardware that perfectly matches your style. Plus, the satisfaction of creating something with your own hands is pretty amazing! It’s a great way to learn new woodworking skills, too. You’ll be surprised at how achievable this project is, even if you’re just getting started.
Getting Started: Your DIY Wood Nightstand Project Plan
This plan is designed for beginners, so don’t worry if woodworking is new to you. We’re going to focus on a simple, yet functional nightstand design with a single drawer. It’s sturdy, practical, and looks great.
What You’ll Need: Tools and Materials
Before we cut any wood, let’s gather our supplies. Having everything ready makes the building process smooth and enjoyable.
Essential Tools:
Safety Gear: Safety glasses are a must, and hearing protection is a good idea when using power tools. Always wear them!
Measuring Tape: For precise measurements.
Pencil: To mark your cuts.
Square: A combination square or speed square is perfect for marking straight lines and ensuring right angles.
Hand Saw or Circular Saw: For cutting your wood pieces. A circular saw will make faster, straighter cuts, especially for longer boards. If you’re new to circular saws, check out this guide on how to use a circular saw for safe operation.
Drill/Driver: For drilling pilot holes and driving screws. A cordless drill is super handy.
Drill Bits: A set of various sizes for pilot holes and the drawer slides.
Screwdriver Bits: To match your screws.
Clamps: Several clamps are invaluable for holding pieces together while the glue dries or while you’re fastening. Bar clamps or pipe clamps work well for this.
Sandpaper: Various grits (e.g., 80, 120, 220) for smoothing wood.
Sanding Block or Orbital Sander: An orbital sander makes sanding much faster and easier for larger surfaces.
Wood Glue: A good quality wood glue is essential for strong joints.
Hammer (Optional): For tapping pieces into place or for certain joinery methods.
Materials:
Wood: For this nightstand, pine is a great choice for beginners. It’s affordable, easy to work with, and takes stain well. You’ll typically need a few boards. A common choice is 1×4, 1×6, and 1×10 lumber. The exact lengths will depend on the dimensions of your nightstand, which we’ll detail below. You might also consider hardwood plywood for drawer bottoms.
Screws: Wood screws of appropriate lengths for assembling the cabinet and drawer. 1 ¼-inch and 2-inch screws are common.
Drawer Slides: A pair of basic drawer slides. Ensure they are the correct length for your drawer.
Drawer Pull/Knob: To finish off your drawer.
Wood Finish: Stain, polyurethane, or paint, depending on your desired look.
Wood Filler (Optional): For filling any small gaps or imperfections.
Understanding the Design: Key Components
Our nightstand will have a main box structure, a top, and a drawer. We’ll keep the joinery simple using screws and glue for maximum strength and ease of assembly.
Here’s a breakdown of the main parts:
Sides (2): These form the vertical walls of your nightstand.
Front and Back: These close off the sides to create the main cabinet.
Bottom: This sits at the base of the cabinet.
Top: The surface of your nightstand.
Drawer Front, Back, Sides (2): These form the drawer box.
Drawer Bottom: This slides into grooves or sits on supports within the drawer box.
Cut List: Precision is Key!
Here’s a sample cut list for a nightstand measuring approximately 20 inches tall, 16 inches wide, and 14 inches deep. These dimensions are a good starting point, and you can adjust them to fit your space.
Important Note: When you buy lumber, it’s often labeled by its nominal size (e.g., 1x 6). The actual dimensions are slightly smaller. A 1×6 board is actually ¾ inch thick and 5 ½ inches wide. Always measure your actual lumber before cutting!
| Piece | Quantity | Wood Type (Actual Dimensions) | Cut Dimensions (Length) | Notes |
| :———— | :——- | :—————————- | :———————- | :—————————————- |
| Cabinet | | | | |
| Sides | 2 | 1×10 | 20 inches | |
| Front | 1 | 1×6 | 14 inches | Will overlap the sides |
| Back | 1 | 1×6 | 14 inches | Will overlap the sides |
| Bottom | 1 | 1×6 | 12 ¼ inches | Fits inside the cabinet box |
| Cleats for Bottom | 2 | 1×2 | 12 ¼ inches | Attach to inside of front/back for bottom |
| Drawer | | | | |
| Drawer Front | 1 | 1×6 | 13 ¼ inches | Overlaps drawer box sides; adjust for desired look |
| Drawer Back | 1 | 1×4 | 11 ¾ inches | Fits inside drawer box sides |
| Drawer Sides | 2 | 1×4 | 13 inches | Cut notches for drawer bottom later |
| Drawer Bottom | 1 | ¼” Plywood (or hardboard) | 11 ¾ inches x 11 ¾ inches | Fits into grooves or on supports |
| Top | | | | |
| Table Top | 1 | 1×10 (or wider boards glued) | 16 inches | May need to be wider than 10″ depending on overhang |
Important Consideration: The ‘width’ of your cabinet front and back pieces (14 inches above) is determined by the actual width of your side pieces (which is around 9 ¼ inches for a 1×10) plus the thickness of two pieces of wood if they attach to the outside edges. In this simple plan, the front and back pieces will attach to the inside edges of the side panels, so their width should match the desired depth of the nightstand. The drawer front and back pieces are sized to sit within the opening created by the cabinet’s front and back.
Drawer Slide Compatibility: When ordering drawer slides, check the manufacturer’s specifications to ensure they fit the width and internal depth of your drawer box.
The Step-by-Step Build: Crafting Your Nightstand
Now for the fun part – building! Take your time, measure twice, cut once, and enjoy the process.
Step 1: Cut All Your Wood Pieces
Using your measuring tape, pencil, and square, mark all your lumber according to the cut list. Double-check your measurements. Then, carefully cut each piece using your saw. If you’re using a hand saw, take your time to ensure a straight cut. If using a circular saw, consider using a guide for extra accuracy.
Step 2: Assemble the Cabinet Box
1. Prepare the Sides: Take your two 1x10x20” side pieces.
2. Attach the Front and Back: Place the 1x6x14” front and back pieces. Decide how they will attach. For this plan, let’s attach them to the inside of the side pieces for a cleaner look. This means the front and back pieces will be the full 14” width and attach to the edges of the 20” tall side pieces. You’ll need to mark where they will sit and ensure they are flush at the top and bottom. Drill pilot holes to prevent the wood from splitting, then drive screws to join them. You’ll have a simple rectangular frame now.
3. Install Bottom Cleats: Take your two 1x2x12 ¼” cleats. Measure up about 1 inch from the bottom edge on the inside of the front and back cabinet pieces and mark a line. Glue and screw these cleats to the inside faces of the front and back pieces, ensuring they are level and flush with the marks. These will support the bottom panel.
4. Attach the Bottom: Slide your 1x6x12 ¼” bottom piece onto the cleats you just installed. It should fit snugly. Apply wood glue to the top edges of the cleats, then drive screws up through the cleats into the bottom panel. You can also drive screws from the outside of the side panels into the edges of the bottom panel for extra stability, but be sure to pre-drill!
Step 3: Prepare and Assemble the Drawer
1. Drawer Sides Grooves: Take your two 1x4x13” drawer side pieces. You’ll need to cut a groove for the drawer bottom. This groove should be about ½ inch up from the bottom edge and run the entire length of the piece. A router with a rabbeting bit or a table saw can be used for this. If you don’t have these tools, you can skip the groove and simply attach the drawer bottom to the underside later.
2. Assemble the Drawer Box: Take your drawer front (1x6x13 ¼”) and drawer back (1x4x11 ¾”). Place them between the two drawer sides (1x4x13”). The drawer back will be narrower to fit inside the sides. The drawer front might also need to be trimmed slightly to fit flush depending on how you want it to look.
3. Join the Drawer Box: Apply wood glue to the ends of the drawer sides. Position the drawer front and back pieces and clamp them in place. Drill pilot holes through the drawer sides into the front and back pieces, then secure with screws.
4. Install Drawer Bottom: Slide your drawer bottom (¼” plywood) into the grooves you cut on the drawer sides. If you skipped the grooves, place the panel on the bottom edge of the drawer box and secure it by driving screws up through the plywood into the bottom edges of the drawer front and back. You might want to add a small 1×2 support brace across the underside of the back of the drawer bottom if it doesn’t feel sturdy enough.
Step 4: Install Drawer Slides
This is a crucial step for smooth drawer operation.
1. Separate Slides: Your drawer slides will likely come in two parts – a cabinet member and a drawer member. Separate them according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Attach Cabinet Members: These attach to the inside of your nightstand cabinet. You’ll need to position them carefully. Measure the distance from the top of the cabinet opening down to where the slide should sit. Most slides have adjustable mounting holes. Ensure they are level and parallel to each other. Drill pilot holes and screw them in place using short screws.
3. Attach Drawer Members: These attach to the sides of your drawer box. Again, ensure they are level and parallel. You’ll want them to align perfectly with the cabinet members when the drawer is inserted. Drill pilot holes and screw them in place.
4. Test Fit: Carefully slide the drawer into the cabinet. It should glide smoothly. If it sticks, you may need to make minor adjustments to the slide placement.
Step 5: Attach the Top
1. Position the Top: Place your tabletop piece (1x10x16” or wider) on top of your assembled cabinet. You can center it or choose to have a slight overhang on one or more sides.
2. Secure the Top: From the inside of the cabinet, drive screws up through the top edges of the side and front/back panels into the underside of the tabletop. Be careful not to drive screws too deep! You can also use figure-eight fasteners or Z-clips for a more professional look that allows for wood expansion/contraction.
Step 6: Sanding and Finishing
This is where your nightstand really starts to shine!
1. Sand Everything: Start with a coarser grit sandpaper (like 80 or 120) to remove any rough spots or pencil marks. Then, move to finer grits (like 220) to make the wood beautifully smooth. Pay extra attention to edges and corners. An orbital sander will make this process much faster. Always sand in the direction of the wood grain.
2. Clean Off Dust: Wipe the entire piece down with a tack cloth or a slightly damp rag to remove all sanding dust.
3. Apply Finish:
Polyurethane/Varnish: Once the stain is dry, apply 2-3 coats of polyurethane or varnish for protection. Lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper between coats for a super smooth finish, and wipe down with a tack cloth after each sanding.
Paint: If painting, apply a primer first, followed by 2-3 coats of your chosen paint color. Sand lightly between coats.
Step 7: Attach Drawer Pull/Knob
1. Mark the Location: Decide where you want your drawer pull or knob to be on the drawer front. Usually, it’s centered horizontally and a few inches down from the top.
2. Drill the Hole: Use a drill bit that matches the screw size of your hardware. Drill a pilot hole through the drawer front.
3. Install Hardware: Insert the screw from the inside of the drawer, and attach the knob or pull on the outside. Tighten securely.
Fastening Techniques: Get it Right the First Time!
Using the right fastening techniques ensures your nightstand is strong and looks professional.
Pilot Holes: Always drill pilot holes, especially when screwing into hardwoods or near the edges of boards. This prevents the wood from splitting. The pilot hole should be slightly smaller than the diameter of your screw’s shank.
Countersinking: For a cleaner look, you can countersink your screw holes. This involves using a larger drill bit to create a slight recess around the pilot hole, so the screw head sits flush with or slightly below the wood surface. You can then fill these holes with wood filler before finishing.
Wood Glue: Don’t underestimate the power of wood glue! It creates a bond that is often stronger than the wood itself. Always apply glue to the mating surfaces before screwing them together. Wipe away any excess glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth before it dries.
Making it Your Own: Customization Ideas
This plan is a fantastic starting point, but feel free to get creative!
Legs: Instead of a solid cabinet base, you could add furniture legs for a different style.
Hardware: Experiment with different drawer pulls and knobs.
Wood Type: Try using a nicer wood like poplar or even a small amount of oak for a more premium look.
Shelving: For a simpler design without a drawer, you can leave the front open and add a shelf.
Size: Adjust the dimensions to fit any space. Just remember to recalculate your cut list accordingly.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- Q1: What is the best type of wood for a DIY nightstand?
- Pine is an excellent choice for beginners because it’s affordable, widely available, and easy to work with. Other good options include poplar, which takes paint beautifully, or even a more robust wood like oak or maple if you’re looking for durability and a finer grain.
- Q2: How do I ensure my drawer slides are installed correctly?
- The key is precision! Ensure the cabinet members and drawer members are perfectly level and parallel. Double-check that they are positioned correctly based on the manufacturer’s instructions. A slight misalignment can cause the drawer to stick or not close properly.
- Q3: Can I build this nightstand with just hand tools?
- Yes, you absolutely can! While power tools make the process faster and easier, this design can be built